Courtesy of Via Triozzi
Audio By Carbonatix
Chef Leigh Hutchinson had a vision for a new restaurant while standing in the Piazza della Republica in Florence. At the time, she was a college student on a semester abroad program. She was mesmerized by the pace of life and rich culture swirling around her in Italy and told herself at that moment she would one day bring this back to her hometown.
Well, guess what Dallas? Reservations are now open.
It was a long road to get here, however. After that initial trip, Hutchinson, who is from a tight-knit Italian family in Coppell, went back to Italy, Florence specifically, where she spent two years completing a culinary program. While there, as one is wont to do, she traveled throughout the country, eating and learning. She even worked at an olive crush and a wine harvest.
What in God’s name brought her back from a land flowing with olives and wine?
We don’t know. The world is full of mysteries.
Before returning to Texas, Hutchinson spent time working at restaurants owned by two of her uncles in Buffalo, New York, making pasta at one during the day and as a line cook at the other at night.
Once back in Texas, she worked at St. Rocco’s and Beverly’s. And now, 17 years after that visionary moment in Florence, she’s got her own restaurant, and we’re giddy to get a table.
Via Triozzi is named for a street in Scandicci, a town in the hills near Florence, where Hutchinson lived in a 15th-century villa.
Via Triozzi on Lower Greenville.
Courtesy of Via Triozzi
The new restaurant on Lower Greenville has high ceilings, a checkerboard terrazzo floor and photos of her Italian family on the walls. All the pasta is made in-house, in a glassed-in room at the front of the space.
The wine list is focused on low-intervention wines from small producers, and women- and family-owned vineyards. Pours are by the glass, half-carafe or full liter.
Ricotta montata with grilled zucchini.
Courtesy of Via Triozzi
As for the menu, while in Italy, Hutchinson spent time learning how to create lasagne al forno made with Bolognese, besciamella (a bechamel sauce) and pecorino romano. Naturally, it’s on the menu here ($38) and it’s also available in ready-to-go containers, which might be dangerous.
Growing up, Hutchinson spent Sundays in the kitchen of her grandmother who also gets a nod on the menu with a chicken cacciatore and pane bianco.
Other menu highlights include a coccoli: crispy dough with stracchino cheese and 20-month prosciutto de San Daniele. There’s a tagliatelle with ragu Bolognese and bistecca alla fiorentina featuring a Texas-raised porterhouse for two.
Reservations are open, and walk-ins are welcome. Valet is complimentary.
Via Triozzi, 1806 Greenville Ave. Sunday – Monday and Wednesday – Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; closed Tuesday.
