In an Era of Jazz-Hands Restaurants, Ateliê Is the Authenticity Dallas Needs

Jefferson Boulevard is the perfect home for the new restaurant Ateliê. This vibrant strip and heart of Oak Cliff is a fusion of culture, art and locally owned retail, free of the contrived pretentiousness found in many areas of Dallas. In this gritty yet beautiful neighborhood, full of historic treasures, local spots dot the street, and vibrant bouffant quinceañera dresses dazzle in store windows.

Ateliê is a concept by chef Wyl Lima, who was born in Angola and moved to Texas with his family when he was 9. His culinary background includes the Michelin-starred Temporis in Chicago. He opened the Dallas restaurant Sister, which was named to The New York Times list of best restaurants in America in 2022. In 2024, Lima also opened and continues to oversee the culinary direction at The Charlotte, a popular restaurant in Knox-Henderson.

With Ateliê, Lima has developed a space that is an intersection of food, storytelling and culture, based in part on a series of underground supper clubs he hosted called The Experience. His new restaurant’s full government name is “Ateliê by THE EXPERIENCE.” These dinners began in Oak Cliff, and when Lima was ready to find a permanent home, he knew where he wanted it.

“I was very specific to our realtor and saying I want something in the Bishop Arts-Oak Cliff area,” Lima says. “Very much so because that’s where we started. It’s my favorite part of the city. I love Bishop Arts and love Oak Cliff.”

A Culinary Voice

When Ateliê opened late last year, Lima shared in a press release that of his quaint 12-item bistro menu, the roasted half chicken, cacio e pepe, and grilled mackerel were the clearest reflections of his culinary voice.

“The chicken is everything I grew up around,” Lima said. “African and Caribbean influences, fire, sweetness, spice, brought together in harmony.”

Harmony is a good word for this spot: the dining room has a balance of art, warm service and subtle touches creating a charming experience. The flooring is a simple polished concrete and well-spaced tables allow for a bit of intimacy. Candles set a warm mood, and mismatched floral china with delicate flowers is a nice touch. The walls are covered in paintings from local artists; Ateliê serves as a satellite space for work curated by Daisha Board.

We started with charred cabbage topped with pistachios, clumps of oily red pepper chili flakes and thin slices of pears. Never has a cabbage been treated so royally. We started here, but could have ordered a few more rounds and just stayed here. The slightly charred leaves lounge in a pool of smoked Gouda that is a bit frothy. When the cabbage was long gone, we ran our spoons through the leftover pool, savoring every sip.

The cacio e pepe is a tornado of pasta and cream on an elegant oval plate, trimmed this time in gold with pink flowers. This is a staple dish for Lima; he says the creamy pasta will always have a home on his menu. A touch of lemon brightens the thick and creamy sauce. Dishes are served for the table here, which is how this should be attacked. It’s indulgent and decadent; less meets more here.

The perfectly roasted half chicken is served as a tidy pile of white and dark pieces, topped with bright, breezy Mediterranean chutney. Large chunks of golden plantains hide below the pile. With each bite, crispy, seasoned skin gives way to tender meat, with satisfying pulls from the bone. The chicken is $38 and is enough for two.

While Lima’s pedigree and experience shine in every dish, finding the perfect spot along this section of Jefferson Avenue brings the space together unpretentiously. It’s absolutely perfect, especially in a city that has lately been so fascinated by the next shiny thing.

Ateliê by THE EXPERIENCE, 367 W. Jefferson Blvd. Sunday – 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Monday – Thursday 4 – 10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday 4 – 11 p.m.; Saturday brunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.