The French Room is still The French Room. In fact, it’s more The French Room than it had been in decades. A no-expense-spared restoration has returned the dining room to the elegance of its original look, closer to the way the restaurant appeared when it opened in 1912. Head Chef Michael Ehlert and his team are doing an impressive job stepping into one of the city’s most storied kitchens. The cooking — available on tasting menus only, three courses for $85 or seven for $135 — is classically French with a modern accent, the plates happily focused and uncluttered. Overall, the effect of the new French Room’s food is to show the elegance creative minds can achieve when working within the constraints of tradition.