Restaurants

First Look: Texano Cocina on Lemmon fills big shoes

A new Tex-Mex chapter has begun in an old space.
chicken enchiladas at Texano
Chicken enchiladas at Texano.

photo by Lauren Drewes Daniels

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Texano along Lemmon Avenue could put a sign atop its roof telling Southwest Airlines passengers where to get above-par Tex-Mex. Planes pass just above the restaurant, as indicated by large shadows that swoop across the skylights every now and then. After a trip out of town, I’d happily reacclimate to the city with a plate of Tex-Mex from Texano.

Texano occupies the space El Fenix was for decades.
Texano occupies the space El Fenix was for decades.

Lauren Drewes Daniels

This restaurant is from longtime service industry veteran Rick Castillo. It sits in a landmark Tex-Mex space; El Fenix reigned for 60 years there before closing in 2020. Then Casa Rosa moved in and closed in 2024, Eddie’s Cocina was after that. Castillo took over in 2025 and feels like he’s honed in on what the surrounding neighborhoods want: Tex-Mex staples (sure) in a chic but comfortable setting (well, of course), with some deep cuts for foodies including family recipes and a convivial bar.

Texano seemingly hits all of those. And after a couple of visits, Park Cities, Medical District and Preston Hollow neighbors agree.

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Getting out of your car, you might chuckle at some small yard signs near the parking lot: “We buy houses. JK! We sell tacos.”

Walking inside, straight ahead you’ll see a large, dimly lit bar, walled off in its own room. TVs deck the walls, and on a visit during a World Cup match, it was mostly full and had a sporty spice energy of its own.

The dining room is more relaxed, warm, and well-lit by the skylights. There’s a subtle Southwestern chic aesthetic. It is well-appointed (not overly so) and balanced. Colorful tapestries and wooden columns accent the room. The space allows diners to enjoy a quiet lunch without sticking an elbow in your neighbor’s queso.

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What to order

At first glance, the menu is standard. There are taco plates, flautas, enchiladas, nachos, quesadillas and all the key players. But dig deeper for a culinary adventure.

Under apertivos a Tequila lime shrimp dish gives mussels in a beer or wine broth. In this version, sautéed shrimp swim in a buttery tequila broth. There’s also shredded lettuce in there, which might seem odd, but let it happen. It adds a nice texture. Grilled toast is your transport vehicle here. This is a great bar item, something to nibble on with a cold beer.

Castillo is most proud of the bean dip, a recipe from his mother, and the Carnitas Mojcajete, a large dish of slow-roasted pork shoulder, enough for four. It comes with all the proper accouterments.

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A smashed burguesa at the table next to us gave us FOMO. We went with a Mexican Cheesesteak instead, which is an absolutely beautiful hot mess. Fajita beef swims in queso and a bun tries but, bless it, fails to hold all together. We’re not mad.

Shrimp enchiladas with a tomatilla sauce are light and will fill whatever void the day is giving.

Specials and happy hour

These days, we’re all looking at specials and happy hours to see how “regular” of a place this might be.

There are seven lunch specials that range from $12 (the El Camino: an enchilada, taco, rice and beans) to $18 fajitas.

Happy hour runs Monday through Friday from 2 to 6 p.m. The food menu has bar favorites like queso, nachos and quesadillas (each just $5). Or get a smashed burger for $11. House margs are $5. Ranch water, paloma and an LA Skinny is $7. Get a bottle of beer for $5, drafts are $4 and wine is $5.

If the neighborhood had outgrown the predictability of El Fenix, Texano offers more room for adventure, while still appealing to the traditionalist in your party. Plus, the bar makes it a great space to pre or post game your weekend; or recover a flight. Even though they don’t buy houses.

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