Photo by Austin Wood
Audio By Carbonatix
After waiting for a couple of years, The Cedars neighborhood finally got a dedicated deli and sandwich spot with the opening of Seegars Deli.
Olivia Genthe of Font Board and Table in Uptown first announced plans to open a “nondenominational” delicatessen with an old-world ethos on South Harwood Street in 2023. If there’s any consolation to be taken from the delay, find comfort in the fact that it was, at least in part, due to her opening of another intriguing spot, Little Blue Bistro, in a 980-square-foot home on Eighth Street in Bishop Arts.
All that aside, there’s been a fair amount of anticipation building up for Seegars debut. A smoky piece of quality pastrami or fresh-baked marble rye bread can’t be found on every corner in Dallas, after all. But as of last Wednesday, the intersection of South Harwood and Seegar Street is now one of the few.
Seegars is currently in a soft-opening phase with daytime-only hours Wed-Sun, but will expand to offer dinner and daily service in a few weeks, culinary director Lisa Martel told the Observer. The space has an old-style deli counter and throwback decor that make it feel like a fitting neighbor for Mike’s Gemini Twin, one of our favorite bars in the city. It also wouldn’t be too out of character in New York or Genthe’s native Cleveland, which is probably the point. Unlike most old-school northern delis, however, you’ll be able to order a martini.
Deli Scenes
The 2,500-square-foot building Seegars moved into has been around since 1947, and, again, the deli leans into its historic feel. Walls are accented by ’50s-esque checkerboard tile that could serve as the decoration inspiration for your neighborhood’s newest and trendiest smashburger spot. Ashtrays sit on every tabletop. Unfortunately for those looking to go back a few decades by visiting, Dallas health codes will prevent you from smoking a cowboy killer with your club sandwich.
Views of the behind-the-counter action can be seen from around the open brick-walled space. There’s a decent amount of retro-esque vinyl counter seating, and some cushy booths by the windows.
There are some modern touches, however, like slick light fixtures dotting the ceiling and an updated coffee machine, although even that is painted in a vintage baby blue.
The Food
Aside from a few salad choices, sandwiches are the decided focus of Seegars current offering. There are a few non-meat items like egg salad or the tomato sandwich, which comes with cracked black pepper, capers and lemon, but like any old-fashioned deli, the meats reign.
Pastrami is shipped in from RC Provisions in California, one of the top producers of cured and smoked brisket west of the Mississippi. Customers can opt for the traditionalist approach with just mustard and pickles, or add sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing for a Reuben. Either way, the sandwiches come with a heaping of ruby-red meat twinged with a peppery layer of spice crust.
The Italian and the roast beef, made with house-cooked wagyu chuck, both come with vegetables marinated in garlic oil, which Seegars also uses to soak its shredded provolone for extra flavor.
Another early star is the fried bologna, which comes thick-cut on brioche bread with garlic mayo and American cheese. All sandwiches can be ordered with housemade potato chips or thin-cut fries.
Martel said they will add blue plate dinner specials once the soft opening is complete, with meatloaf mentioned as something to watch for. Those specials could end up back on the menu the following day as leftover lunch sandwiches.
She also said not to expect meatball subs or Italian beef anytime soon, as Dallasites are already plenty attached to the versions served at Jimmy’s.
Seegars has a full bar in addition to a coffee program, including cortados and macchiatos. Coffee may get more love during the soft opening, but once the deli opens for dinner, the cocktail menu will probably be one to keep an eye on.
Hours and Location
Seegars is located at 1950 S Harwood St. Currently, the deli is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
