100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 56: Champagne Brie Soup at St. Martin's

Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2016 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

“Huh?”

That’s the first thing some people say when they first visit St. Martin’s Wine Bistro on Greenville Avenue and see the restaurant’s trademark appetizer: Champagne brie soup. There aren’t too many booze-based soups in the world, aside from borracho beans, and brie soup is an old-timey recipe that has fallen so hard out of fashion that youngsters might not know it was ever in.

Those trendy youngsters might also say “huh?” when the soup arrives. It’s simply a bowl of white liquid, like chowder with no clams or veggies, or a bowl of oddly colored cream. Nobody’s going to be posting photos of Champagne brie soup on Instagram.

Taste it, though, and everything makes sense. It’s just a classier version of a cream soup, silky-smooth in texture, with just the right dash of pepper on top, executed with the perfection of chefs who've been making it for decades. Brie is not exactly light fare, but this soup only whets the palate for main courses to come. No wonder it’s been on the menu at St. Martin's since 1977. 
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Brian Reinhart has been the Dallas Observer's food critic since spring 2016. In addition, he writes baseball analysis for the Hardball Times and covers classical music for the Observer and MusicWeb International.
Contact: Brian Reinhart