All that has been written about Heim Craft Barbecue in Near Southside Fort Worth to this point has buried the lede. Sure, the brisket, smoky with a pitch black bark, might be better than Pecan Lodge's. Do not sauce Heim's brisket.
And, sure, the line outside the black trailer in the lawn of Republic Street Bar gets longer every Wednesday and Saturday. They have now sold out five consecutive Saturdays, taking only three hours to do so most recently. Seriously, this place is the next to blow up on the 'cue scene.
But Sweet Porky's Ulcer, cue the Halelujah Chorus: THERE ARE BACON BURNT ENDS HERE, PEOPLE. STEP RIGHT UP AND STOP YOUR HEART IN ITS TRACKS WITH SOME BACON BURNT ENDS.
No, bacon burnt ends are not hunks of the traditional fatback cut. These pork-belly delights are served in quarter-pound portions, while the rest of the meat options are served in half-pounds, for a reason. In fact, against his own pocketbook, owner Travis Heim recommends patrons limit their intake to one quarter-pound serving.
"They're not what you would call cardiologist-friendly," Heim said.
The bacon burnt ends are cured and pork-rubbed before being cooked hot for two-to-three hours, the barbecue equivalent of flash frying. On my weekend visit, they were chewy and meaty and fatty all at the same time, pretty perfect, despite lacking the slight crunch Heim prefers them to bring. They are sweet up front and peppery to finish.
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Heim came up with the idea for the cubed delicacies when asked to cook for a "There Will Be Bacon" themed pop-up. You could eat a hundred of them, if you didn't have to be anywhere for the next three days.
Heim's pulled pork sandwich is also a standout, helped along by a sweet and smoky sauce. The twice baked potato salad, chunky and stuck together with cheddar and sour cream, is loaded with bacon (all bacon bases covered) and chives. The side dish could convert nonbelievers on its own, but it doesn't have to as long as bacon burnt ends are on the menu.
Here's hoping these succulent little critters become industry standard.
Heim Craft Barbecue 201 E Hattie St., Fort Worth, 817-876-2741, 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. Wednesday, 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturday Heim Facebook