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Nick Rallo


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  • 2 months ago | Burgers

    High on the list of things we miss, sorely and all-over, is planting at a bar. When you park there for a while, phone down, you notice the small things. It’s those things you miss the most when you’re away from them for so long: The dim light of t...

  • 2 months ago | Sandwiches

    Honestly, get the grilled cheese anyway you damn please. Add a runny egg (over-medium or over-hard, too) or grilled jalapenos, just a few or a whole nest of them, and onions. Raw white onions? No, a spread of caramelized onions is my personal choi...

  • 3 months ago | Lists

    The sound of the crunch from their fried chicken can fill a room. It’s as loud as a light bulb breaking or the spider-crack that happens when you step on thin ice. Whatever it is — it’s noticeable. It’s memorable. Kim Chanthorn stands guard on the...

  • 3 months ago | Sandwiches

    The correct answer to the question is “yes.” The question, on a recent visit, involved the only words spoken between customer and employee — even during checkout — because there was nothing else needed. The electric knife buzzed off a layer of sha...

  • 3 months ago | Eat This

    If you give Genet Mulugeta a few days notice, she’ll prepare the doro wat like it’s done back home. Plenty of onion softens in the pan, low and slow for hours with the pottery-red of berbere chili powder, butter, garlic, and zaps of cardamom. That...

  • 4 months ago | Lists

    It’s that time of year again when the leaves redden, the pumpkins sleep on the porches, and you, all besweatered, warm your hands by the box of klobasneks in your passenger seat. “Want them warmed?” is a question Texans should know already — it me...

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