Cuquita's, on Josey Lane in Farmer's Branch, promises traditional Mexican grub and handmade tortillas, but that's just the start. Pozole is full of hominy and huge hunks of tender pork, and comes with a bowl of onions and limes and cold, crunchy cabbage. Enchiladas come three to an order loaded with chicken and cheese. An order of eggs and potatoes tasted like eggs, potatoes and butter, and that's the trick here. Pozole tastes like pork and chili and limes after you squeeze them. The chicken enchiladas taste like chicken. Beans are beans and rice is rice. Cumin is not abused here; Cuquita's cooking is simple and quiet. We like it for that.
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