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Nori Handroll Bar

2814 Elm St.
Dallas, TX 75226
469-436-6674
Critics' Pick
Nori Handroll Bar +

Alison McLean

Details

  • Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday Dinner: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-midnight Friday-Saturday Closed Sunday
  • Lunch, Dinner
Suddenly, temaki restaurants are all over Dallas. Handrolls, to use the English word, are small cylindrical rolls of dried seaweed paper wrapped around a quick mix of sushi rice and fish, cucumbers or anything else. They’re a fast-casual version of sushi, basically, and handrolls are meant to be eaten almost as soon as the chef finishes making them. (In other words, don’t get all precious with your Instagramming.) The most careful, considered handroll spot in town is Nori, where chef Jimmy Park builds tasting menus of four or five rolls with ultra-high-quality cuts of tuna belly, freshwater eel and more. Fresh, not pre-packaged, wasabi is available. There’s also a kitchen in the back that can produce excellent cooked dishes like takoyaki, the fried dough balls filled with chunks of octopus.

Top pick: Park recommends starting with one of the set lists of handrolls, since there’s considerable savings compared to ordering them all separately and they also serve as a great introduction to the genre.

The downside: On weekend nights, Nori gets incredibly busy, and the music inside is already plenty loud. Go on a weeknight or at lunch and you might have the restaurant to yourself. That’s also a good idea because rumor has it that regulars and friends of the chefs get access to secret menu items which the rest of us peons don’t know about. We can’t be sure because we’re not cool enough to make the inner circle.

Fun fact: Chef Jimmy Park is a Nobu veteran who moved into handrolls after a brief stint in the poke business.

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