It’s been an unlucky 12 months for the most preposterously posh restaurant in Dallas. In November 2019, a small kitchen fire shut things down for a few days. This March, Town Hearth became one of the first restaurants to have a staff member test positive for coronavirus, guaranteeing news headlines for a test result which, in the weeks to come, would become commonplace at nearly every other restaurant in town. Over the summer, a longtime cook who butchered the steakhouse’s enormous cuts of beef and fish passed away, from undisclosed causes. And the pandemic in general plays against this restaurant’s strengths, which are its crowds of upscale see-and-be-seen Dallasites and tourists loudly mingling over enormous freshly-grilled steaks and king crab tater tots. All of that misfortune has made Town Hearth, once a symbol of the city’s opulence with $120 steaks, into a sort of underdog we can’t help cheering for.
Top pick: Observer burger aficionado Nick Rallo reports that the $23 cheeseburger and fries hold up impressively well in a takeout container. There are also family-style to-go meals available that stick to classics done right, like meatloaf or fried chicken, and don’t break the bank the way those notorious steaks once did.