It was war that brought Ati Malaj to the East Coast of the U.S. in 1995. Raised in the war-torn country of Kosovo, Malaj was forced to stop going to school after the seventh grade. At the age of 15, he started working. It was a long road to America, but almost four decades later he's now known to locals as chef Ati Malaj. And his from-scratch Italian dishes might be some of the best in North Texas.
Malaj first discovered his passion for the restaurant industry shortly after moving to America with his father. In 2015, he teamed up with two childhood friends to open Mio Nonno in Allen. Known primarily for its wood-fired pizzas, Mio Nonno quickly garnered popularity for its fresh pasta and bread, upscale decor and extensive Italian wine selection. His success in Allen pushed the young entrepreneur to open locations in Victory Park in Dallas and in Flower Mound.
Now settled in McKinney with his wife and three children, chef Malaj says it’s always been his dream to own a restaurant close to home. Ciccio Trattoria in McKinney marks the culmination of that vision. It’s Malaj’s fourth restaurant in the DFW area — and it’s becoming just as popular as the first three.
Opened in September 2022, Ciccio Trattoria is similar to Malaj’s first three restaurants: rich Italian dishes and lofty decor draw long wait times for diners.
Indulge in Malaj’s signature house-made focaccia ($6) to start. A side of whipped ricotta cheese brightens the herb-scented bread. In another appetizer, squares of deep-fried polenta ($15) lounge in a shallow pool of mushroom and gorgonzola cream. Different calamari, octopus and mussel appetizers pay homage to the inherent Italian infatuation with seafood.
Ciccio Trattoria’s pasta is a highlight. Try the potato gnocchi ($30), soft potato dumplings floating in a dish of fontina cream. Or the house-made ravioli ($24), stuffed with a lobster-and-shrimp medley and drenched in creamy tomato sauce. Just about every pasta variety is built into the menu, from well-known classics like fettuccine and rigatoni to the unsung pappardelle. For protein-focused dishes, indulge in a roasted duck confit ($26), wagyu steak ($32) or lemon-butter salmon ($27).
Perhaps the only thing missing is Malaj’s famous crispy eggplant, which loyal customers have tirelessly begged him to replicate from the original Mio Nonno location. The glorious dish comes with a breaded and deep-fried slice of eggplant, topped with a rich tomato sauce. Dollops of fresh mozzarella are sandwiched between layers. While it has yet to make an appearance at Ciccio Trattoria, we think the dish would be a worthy addition to the menu — and to your list of must-try dishes.
Despite the lack of something to satiate those aching crispy eggplant cravings, we won’t be surprised if Ciccio Trattoria soon surpasses its sister restaurants in popularity. Good food meets nice decor meets occasional live music. There’s not much more to ask for.
Perhaps stop by on a Monday when wine by the glass is half-off.
Ciccio Trattoria, 7901 Eldorado Parkway, McKinney. Monday – Thursday, 4–9 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., 4–10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., 4–9 p.m.