The original Columbian operated in Carrollton for 125 years and closed in 2004. It served as a prestigious haven, a cradle for the city's Jewish community, and it had a longer history than most clubs of its kind in the U.S. It was a special place for Dallasites and for one of the new club's founders, Brian Rutt, and his family.
We decided to stop by to join them in a toast to their space, which unifies their cherished past and pays homage to a timeless era.
Columbian Country Club its named for the original club, which operated for 125 years in Carrollton.
Aaren Prody
At the end of the hall is a pink-hued micro lounge fit with an extension of the main bar, which seats four, and a long L-shaped booth outfitted with octagonal tables, velvet pouf ottomans and mini lamps. Finally, a narrow archway framed with velvet curtains takes you into the core of the lounge.
Lavish and elegant, the space has low lights, old-world accents and posh seating. On the left side of the space, the backlit bar is a focal point with an impressive selection of liquor and spirits. Toward the back is a piano and a hidden old-school dance floor with live music daily: Monday through Wednesday there's a pianist, and Thursday through Sunday, a live DJ.
In true country club fashion, the patrons are what make up a lot of the experience. Everyone is dressed to impress, including the waitstaff clad in traditional suit jackets, vests and button-ups. The atmosphere is undeniably social where the bartenders shake hands with the newest regulars and tight quarters merge social groups.
The menu is a humble four pages with cocktails, martinis, Champagne, wine and light bites noted as "witty variations on snacky deli fare." Cocktails start at $16 and cap at the $26 Baller Lemon Drop Martini. The vino is moderate to high-priced, from a handful of $15 by-the-glass selections to the $240 bottle of Groth Reserve Cabernet.
The last page of the menu lists all the bites. Framed at the top of the page is caviar service, Texas style, which has ajitama egg, cornbread blini (small bite), melted shallots, creme fraiche and a choice of Platinum Osetra ($110) or Golden Kaluga caviar ($80).
Below that is all the casual but upscale fare. The cobbled eggs ($16) are reminiscent of the renowned Cobb salad that defined the original Columbian Country Club experience. Parmesan bagels ($14) with garlic parmesan butter, whipped cream cheese and lemon thyme are socially acceptable to pair with your espresso martini. The outlier of the menu is the house fries: the only item under $10.
We started with the Señor Harvey Wallbanger ($17), a variation of a Screwdriver made popular in the 70s. The gussied-up recipe uses Dos Hombres mezcal, Montenegro, Galliano and mango juice. The mezcal brings that bold smokiness that helps balance the drink's sweetness. It finishes slightly tangy and refreshing from the mango.
The atmosphere beckoned us for another round, so we went with one of the classics, a dirty martini ($18) made with Ketel One vodka and Dallas' 1888 hand-pressed olive juice. We're typically not partial to vodka, but this was surprisingly light and balanced.
During our visits to many of the newest hotspots around the city, we're surprised to find all the menus share a common denominator: chicken tenders. We're not sure when a signature sauce and spice blend turned our struggle meal chic, but we're not complaining about it.
We couldn't pass up another opportunity to order a kids' menu item at a bar and retain our class and elegance. So compared to the $24 offering at Babou's, CC Club's $17 tenders and house fries seemed, dare we say, reasonable. We finally caved. We were curious. Aren't you?
Granted, they were tasty, well-seasoned and generously portioned, but no one in their right mind drops $20 after tax and tip for some chicken tenders. Lucky for us common folks, a Cane's Chicken is right up the road. And if you theoretically made the five-minute jaunt for a three-finger combo after your pretentious revelry, no one would know.
There's a parking area just outside the entrance and alternative parking nearby. The lounge is unmarked and very lowkey amidst all the construction happening along Ross Avenue. Tip: look for Burgundy's Local; the club is on the left, and the entrance is on the back side of the building.
The lounge is not very big and fills fast, so reservations are encouraged. The proprietors ask that you dress appropriately, specifically smart casual or better. Anything less and you may throw off the vibes.
Columbian Country Club, 3314 Ross Ave., No. 150. Monday – Wednesday, 4:30 p.m. – midnight; Thursday – Saturday, 4:30 p.m. – 2 a.m.; closed Sunday.
