The John Wayne breakfast, with Gold Rush Cafe's fresh red salsa, is $6.95.EXPAND
The John Wayne breakfast, with Gold Rush Cafe's fresh red salsa, is $6.95.
Nick Rallo

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 27: The John Wayne Breakfast at Gold Rush Cafe

“Behold,” she says as the plate drops. Lisette Stewart, who's worked at the Gold Rush for a couple of decades, has been pouring coffee and bouncing between tables with energy. This is a breakfast joint where you sit with a cup of coffee, hangover thumping in your skull, and people-watch before your egg pile arrives. Lasagna lives side by side on a menu (that's shaped like a vinyl record) with golden hash browns soaked in green salsa.

Let's talk about what in the world the John Wayne Breakfast is: It’s a meat painting. It's breakfast art. It doesn't matter why it's named after John Wayne because it's a flour tortilla topped with a crispy potato hash, smothered in red salsa, lightened by onions, run through with a sunny side up egg (give it a whack to let loose the golden yolk) and shredded cheddar, saddled up next to two slices of good, greasy bacon. Get extra tortillas and use them as utensils. I plucked at salsa, bright as a garden that’s brimming with cilantro and jalapeños, with tortillas and gripped bacon, and any hangover that lingered dissolved like cotton candy. It's a peaceful thunderstorm of a breakfast. You'll feel a wave of comfort at one of Dallas' oldest diners.

Gold Rush Cafe, 1913 Skillman St.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send: