First Look: Birdie's Eastside Is a Fresh Taste in a Classic Space

For generations, East Dallas residents would partake of the Luby’s buffet on Mockingbird Lane on the regular, loading up on LuAnn Platters, liver and onions and colorful presentations of Jell-O. Alas, buffet lines during the pandemic were verboten, and Luby’s shuttered its doors, and the corporate parent dissolved soon thereafter.

In its place, Jon Alexis (proprietor of TJ's Seafood, Malibu Poke, Escondido and Ramble Room) purchased the building and created Birdie’s Eastside, a patio-centric restaurant that pays homage to its cafeteria roots, with a little bit of something for everyone. Want to bring the children and let them burn off energy in the kids-friendly play area? Done. Looking for a meal with several friends who all have different palates? Birdie’s can help. Want to grab a cocktail in a quiet lounge, maybe with a bite to eat? Birdie's can make that happen, too.
On a recent Friday night visit, we took a look at all three areas of the sprawling Birdie’s Eastside estate. It was probably the busiest part of the day, but there was plenty of parking to be had. Entering the restaurant takes guests through the impressive patio, 7,000 square feet of tables and gathering spaces that we imagine will be jam-packed in the spring and summer months. There were patrons out there even on this cool winter evening.

The main dining room inside was a raucous space. Naturally, the buffet line and heat lamps are gone, but the cathedral ceilings with exposed beams that arch over turquoise booths and wood tables give the new dining room a warm, eclectic vibe. Just know that, when filled with diners, the space gets loud, sound bouncing from the high ceilings and off the concrete floors.
There was a decent wait to get a table in the main dining room, but we were able to slide into two bar seats in Birdie's adults-only lounge, down a short hallway to the left of the entrance and, thankfully, away from the din of the main restaurant. In addition to half a dozen or so bar seats, there’s a leather couch and a couple of small tables tucked into the lounge, with vinyl records and concert posters adding to the chill feeling.

Birdie’s full menu is available in the lounge. We opened with the bacon deviled eggs ($12), classically prepared with a dusting of paprika and crumbles of bacon sprinkled generously on top. Five egg halves come to an order, and thanks to the thought-provoking powers of a Lakewood Temptress, we wondered what becomes of the sixth half of an egg, mostly because we wanted to eat it, too. If easily divisible portions are more your speed, the birria sliders ($16) come four to an order, with a quartet of sweet Hawaiian-style buns caressing tender roasted beef and melty cheese, with a dish of beefy broth at the ready for dipping.

An order of brisket tacos ($17) came with three overstuffed tortillas to a plate, overflowing with tender shredded brisket, queso fresco and pico de gallo. The homemade tortillas were a nice touch, although a little more smokiness in the brisket would have appealed to our barbecue-loving roots.

The menu promises that seafood selections are “curated by TJ’s Seafood,” and judging by the spicy tuna wonton tacos ($16) that we tried, we wouldn’t shy away from trying the salmon or shrimp and grits we spotted on the menu. The tuna tacos were our favorite bite of the evening, with crispy wonton shells holding a generous portion of ahi tuna cubes on a layer of slaw, dressed lightly with ponzu and a spicy aioli.

It’s been just a few weeks since opening, with the craziness of the holiday season squeezed in for good measure, but Birdie’s already appears to be a popular dining destination. It feels both trendy and casual, with a little bit of something for everyone. When the weather sheds its winter coat, we imagine that the opportunity to enjoy solid food and drinks in the welcoming outdoor space will only broaden Birdie’s appeal.

Birdie's Eastside, 6221 E. Mockingbird Lane. Monday – Thursday, 4 –10 p.m.; Friday, 3 –11 p.m.; Saturday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.