First Look: Green Point Seafood Bar Brings Memories of Cape Town to Dallas

Green Point Seafood & Oyster Bar is the newest venture from the Katz Brothers Hospitality Group (Beverly’s and Clifton Club), which opened on Knox near Mister Charles and Georgie last summer. Greg and Nik Katz named their take on a modern seafood brasserie after the neighborhood on the Atlantic Seaboard of South Africa where their grandparents lived, hoping for inspiration from their upbringing in Cape Town. As Greg states on the website, “I want to bring a taste of my childhood here to Dallas.”

Reservations are recommended and valet parking is complimentary, but we braved a Saturday lunch walk-in on the spur of the moment and were seated relatively quickly. The space is bright and open; a large horseshoe bar is the focal point, surrounded by elegant but not overly fussy seating. Upscale meets neighborhood bistro is an apt description.

We started with a couple of cocktails, a Green Point martini and a Queen Anne’s Revenge. The martini was vodka-based rather than gin, which we tried not to hold against it. A briny blanc vermouth and lemon bitters completed the drink with a lemon twist on the rim. The brine was provided by oyster liquor, which was the selling point for us, but we wish it tasted a bit more “of the sea.”

The Queen Anne's Revenge was prepared with Arette Reposado tequila, passionfruit, orange juice, honey and a spice mixture that added a subtle but welcomed refreshing kick to the beverage. We’re not really sure as to what the object of the namesake revenge is, but at the end of the day, knowledge of Great Britain’s royal lineages is not a prerequisite for enjoying a midday cocktail or two.

Green Point's cold bar offers red snapper ceviche, smoked whitefish dip, a caviar service, the requisite over-the-top seafood tower and oysters on the half-shell by the dozen with fresh varieties that change daily. We didn’t order any oysters on this day, but the family next to us enjoyed their oysters, which were served in a large ice-filled bowl with lemon wedges and sauce.

We started with a warm crab and artichoke dip, which arrived with house-made kettle chips that proved to be the perfect delivery device for the cheesy mixture of Fresno chili, chunks of crab topped with lemon gremolata and chopped chives. The chili provided a slight spice profile that enhanced the dip.

Other starters include fried calamari, steamed mussels and oysters Rockefeller.

Next up was a small house salad of watercress and frisée dressed with a light vinaigrette. It was crunchy and cool and provided a good transition between the dip and mains.

Our first main was actually an appetizer: little fried grouper sandwiches. These arrived three to an order, tall and stacked fish sliders with slaw, tartar sauce and horseradish pickles. The fish was perfectly cooked, battered and fried to a crispy golden exterior that complemented the moist and flaky interior with absolutely no hint of grease. Highly recommended.

An order of seafood pasta followed: al dente bucatini pasta with lobster, jumbo lump crab, large gulf shrimp and confit tomatoes with chili garlic butter and topped with toasted bread crumbs. Extremely good and perfectly presented. The sauce was rich yet not overstated, and again the slight kick from the chili was on point as well.

Other menu options include a lobster roll, fish and chips, cioppino, baked whole fish, chicken piccata, lobster and fries, and steak au poivre.

Dessert options include a lemon bar, chocolate tart and sorbet, but we opted for some banana pudding and sweet banana custard served in a small jar and topped with a slice of banana and house-made vanilla wafer. It was just enough.

The Knox area already has some exceptional restaurants, and Green Point is a welcome and worthy addition. Kudos to the Katz brothers, whose childhood memories are Dallas’ gain.

3219 Knox St., No. 100. Monday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. (bar until 11 p.m.); Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. (bar until midnight); Sunday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Lunch, Saturday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.