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Mary Brown Malouf March 20, 1997 4:00AM

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With all the fuss about fish on the restaurant scene, it's good to remember that some of the best restaurant seafood available to us doesn't come from seafood restaurants. Oriental cuisines are almost all seafood-based, and Oriental restaurants have served the freshest fish available at prices considerably below most seafood restaurants. Jade Garden, in--shall we say--an unprepossessing location off Fitzhugh, is popular for Vietnamese and Chinese food, but regulars know to skip the printed menu and order the fish of the day. Recently, we were given a choice of snapper or flounder, served whole, with head and fins and skin, and decked out with sprigs of fresh cilantro and slivered scallions. Start off with an order of clams, round it out with some rice and the GewrYtztraminer you brought yourself, and you have a seafood feast.

--Mary Brown Malouf

Jade Garden, 4800 Bryan and Fitzhugh, (214) 821-0675

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Mary Brown Malouf

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