After a 2-Year Hiatus, Mama Mia Returns to Deep Ellum

Deep Ellum’s Mama Mia Pizza and Pasta was there – until it wasn’t. If you frequent Dallas’ historic entertainment district, you’ve seen Mama Mia, even as the space sat vacant (yellow paint peeling away from the exterior walls and all) for two years following the death of its previous owner.

But as quickly as Mama Mia shuttered, the lights were suddenly back on inside Mama Mia.

After a recent visit, it was as if they never left.

Mama Mia, which reopened on Oct. 11, has the unmistakable feel of a classic, humble, no-frills neighborhood Italian bistro. The menu reflects that also – meatball subs, calzones and strombolis, spaghetti and meatballs, and fettucine alfredo are all deeply familiar Italian comfort food found among Mama Mia’s offerings. And of course – pizza. Good pizza.

As we entered, we were greeted by Phillip Baca, a chef and partner on the new team behind Mama Mia’s. Baca told us Mama Mia’s loyal following had long been clamoring for the restaurant’s return since they turned the lights out two years ago.

“The old customers are beyond thrilled to have Mama Mia back," Baca told the Observer. "They’ve been asking for it for a long time. Many have already returned, even though we’re still technically in a soft-opening phase.”
We opened with Mama Mia’s “famous” white pizza ($15.95). This alfredo sauce-based 12-inch pie comes topped with grilled chicken, basil and mushrooms with a perfectly charred crust. This was a quality pie you’d expect at a neighborhood spot like this. Other pizza options include meat lovers (pepperoni, sliced meatballs, Canadian bacon, Italian sausage), margarita, Hawaiian (Canadian bacon, pineapple, bell pepper), and veggie (mushrooms, bell pepper, onion, spinach, green and black olives).

Next, we went with a hefty-sized (it could feed two) sausage and pepperoni calzone ($14.95) with marinara on the side. This beaut was filled with melted mozzarella, pepperoni and sausage.

Last on our list of things to try was Mama Mia's Rosetta pasta. This creamy pasta is made of grilled chicken, bell peppers, mushrooms, and tomato sauce over penne pasta. After stuffing ourselves with pizza and calzone, we could only manage a scant few bites before waving the white flag and motioning to Baca for a to-go box (it was good pasta, and we were glad to have the leftovers later).

Baca told us how excited old customers were to hear that the Mama Mia sequel was returning to the neighborhood. And after visiting (we missed the original Mama Mia run), we get it. Because good Italian comfort fare from a low-key spot chock-full of character like Mama Mia is tough to beat.

Heads up, if you want a glass of wine with your pasta or a beer with your pie, Mama Mia's is BYOB, so plan accordingly.
Mama Mia Pizza & Pasta, 2935 Elm Street. Sunday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – midnight.