Andy Sedino knows a few things about barbecue. For over a decade, he worked for the Rudy’s barbecue chain, helping them grow throughout the North Texas area. After parting ways with Rudy’s, Sedino started his own barbecue and catering company, Meat U Anywhere BBQ. Success in the catering business encouraged Sedino to open a small restaurant late last year in Grapevine. I’d heard of the lines forming at lunch and on the weekends for Meat U’s fare, so I dropped in between the lunch and dinner rushes to check it out.
The restaurant is a small stone-and-brick building in a gravel parking lot, tucked next to a Jiffy Lube. Inside, the ordering line / kitchen prep area takes up half the space, and wooden tables and painted metal chairs fill the other side. Wood beams and exposed brick give a rustic vibe, without trying too hard to remind you that you’re in a barbecue joint.
Standard ‘cue meats are sold by the pound, and sides added a la carte; there are no plate specials or combos. As I pondered the menu, the counterman sliced off some brisket and turkey for me to try. Both were delicious, and were promptly ordered, along with pulled pork, three of the St. Louis pork ribs, and some sides.
When slicing my brisket, the gentleman asked me if I wanted him to scrape off the bark. I’m still unsure what bothered me more; that he asked the question in the first place, or that enough people have made the request for it to become habit. “Scrape off my bark and watch what happens, son!” sounds like something I’d say, but the man was holding a knife, so a polite “no thanks” quietly escaped my lips instead.
Brisket bark intact, it was time to dive in. A few bites into the lean brisket, and I was in love. It was a touch on the dry side, but the beefy smokiness shines. The thin slices of seasoned turkey were delicious from start to finish, and the ribs are also a solid choice. The rub was bit on the salty side, but the ribs also had a touch of sweetness, and were perfectly cooked and tender. The pulled pork was a miss, though, unless you suffer from extreme dental sensitivity and need to keep the chewing to a minimum. The pile was a mushy mess, devoid of any semblance of smoke or seasoning.
Meat U scores points for trying to be different with their sides. On paper, the ideas are solid, but execution falls flat. The jalapeño bacon mac and cheese was missing all but a fraction of said jalapeño and bacon, but at least the pasta and cheese parts worked well. Notcha Momma’s Slaw boasts the addition of ramen noodles for crunch. In my dish, the noodles were soggy, and the vinegar slaw lacked flavor; given a choice, I’d go with my momma’s slaw instead. Cowboy Campfire Pinto Beans are a cross between baked beans and ranch style beans, but I wish they’d chose to be one or the other.
If you’ve saved room for dessert, some fine choices await. Meat U’s banana pudding is so good, you could eat it by the gallon. Pecan and buttermilk pie are also on the menu, and all the desserts are made on site.
Above all, the staff was extremely personable and welcoming. I even ran into Andy Sedino on the way out, and he stopped to chat for a few moments and thank me for coming in. Between the tasty meats, friendly staff, and a nice looking location, Sedino’s got a good thing going at Meat U Anywhere. On Friday and Saturday nights, the menu expands with “premium” meats - smoked prime rib, beef ribs, and pork tenderloins, and bone-in pork chops.
Meat U Anywhere BBQ
919 W. Northwest Highway, Grapevine
Monday - Saturday, 6am - 7:30pm, Sunday 6am - 3pm
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.