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Thai elephants welcome you to the dining area of Tomyumkung, reimagined by Brenton Rodriguez and his wife in 2020.
Hank Vaughn
Pad woon sen was also on the menu, and it isn’t always, so we ordered that. We wanted some duck, too, and could choose from duck noodle soup, duck pad Thai, crispy duck Thai basil and duck fried rice. When we finally settled on the duck fried rice, we were asked what spice level we’d like. There were not four, not five, but eight spice levels to choose from. Talk about fine tuning.
The serving sizes were large, and came with a cup of tom yum soup, a nice addition. The pad woon sen was a generous amount of perfectly stir-fried glass noodles, egg, tomatoes, cabbage and carrots in a delicate brown sauce topped with green onions, and to the extent that a spice-level range can be an exact science, this did seem to nail it. This was a faithful and flavorful representation of this classic Thai dish.
The duck fried rice arrived piled high with wonderfully crispy pieces of duck. The meat was not dry but also not fatty, and the skin was perfectly crisped. The duck sat upon a large portion of Thai fried rice, complete with the requisite tomatoes, egg and green onions, all in a light fish sauce. It was wonderful. Have we mentioned the duck yet? The crispy-chewy-meaty pieces seasoned to perfection stole the show. Disappointment set in when it appeared that only rice remained, but like a secret stowaway, one final piece of duck breast and crispy skin remained hidden under the rice. With a bit of satisfaction mixed with a tinge of sadness, we finished it off.
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This version of Tomyumkung has been serving up Thai food including Isan cuisine since 2020.
Hank Vaughn
3030 N. Josey Lane, Carrollton; 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., 4:30 p.m. – 9 p.m., Monday and Wednesday – Friday; 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.. Saturday and Sunday; closed Tuesday.