A Los Angeles-based seafood chain has arrived in Uptown with high confidence, big ambitions and eyebrow-raising prices. Water Grill already has the swagger of a place that’s been a fixture for years, married to a menu that’s eager to impress Uptown crowds. Diners have come rushing in, but sometimes the food here gets a little overeager to please. Fresh fish is flown in daily — a high expense, but a great culinary result. All photos by
Kathy Tran.