So, Dallas Has Two of the Best Bars in America? And, One of the Best Places For Fried Chicken?

The June/July Esquire arrived at the house yesterday -- the How to Be a Man 2010 issue, thank God. And contained therein is the fifth annual rundown of the magazine's Best Bars in America, two of which are in stumbling distance courtesy the contributions of my friend Adam McGill, who...

By Robert Wilonsky

May 28, 2010

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The June/July Esquire arrived at the house yesterday -- the How to Be a Man 2010 issue, thank God. And contained therein is the fifth annual rundown of the magazine's Best Bars in America, two of which are in stumbling distance courtesy the contributions of my friend Adam McGill, who adds to the list BarBelmont and the Balcony Club. Of the former, Adam writes, "With the right companion and enough drinks, the skyline becomes a mountain range and the heard-but-not-seen traffic is a continuously-crashing wave"; of the latter, "It all adds up to be a mise-en-scène for a new-wave classic that should be part of a film festival downstairs" at the Lakewood Theater.

Also showing up in the mailbox yesterday: The June ish of Bon Appetit, where, on Page 32 you will find The Hot 10 Best Places for Fried Chicken. Dallas's sole entry on the list isn't, perhaps, the most expected offering; no Bubba's or Babe's, say. Instead, it's the Sunday-brunch-only Granny Fearing's "Paper Bag Shook" Fried Chicken at Fearing's in the Ritz-Carlton that gets the gravy. Notes Bon A., "We've never met chef Dean Fearing's grandma, but we'd like to thank her." I am now hungry. And thirsty for a glass of mise-en-scène, neat.

Robert Wilonsky

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