Forget the ‘burbs: Elephant Indian Grill brings elite Indian comfort food to Oak Cliff

Plastic containers of leftovers are so common in my fridge that they’re often left to die. But recently, rice covered in a fiery curry sauce caused a small ruckus. Where’s this from? Wait, who ate that — that was mine? The longtime family restaurant Tandoor in Arlington is our North Star for Indian food; our bubble is small. (Get the kemah naan and tell me I’m wrong.) So this was an extra special bit of drama in the kitchen.

The new Indian restaurant Elephant Indian Grill, in the space that was previously Swank and Sharon Von Meter’s Beckley 1115, offers something exciting. My second trip was planned before my first was even over. Now, I just had dates to go along.

Elephant is an expansion of the restaurant on Central Expressway where the old Buzzbrews used to be. And both are from the same owners as the fantastic Shiva’s in downtown Dallas, which our writer Anisha Holla previously called a “royal dining experience.” On the side, I asked her, “Anisha, is it really that good?” Yes, it is, she promised. I double-checked and agreed.

The space

At this newer location, chef Praveen Prasannan is still driving things in the kitchen. Here in North Oak Cliff, there’s easy free parking — and cookies nearby at Kessler Baking Studio, if you happen to skip the mango cheesecake (don’t skip it; just get cookies to-go. You’re there. You have to).

The space is well adorned and bright. Chairs are plush, and several intricate light fixtures hang over the dining room. Marble tables with red cloth napkins and little gold lamps atop every table feel modern in this little old house. There’s a full bar. Many people come in and wander around a bit looking for their to-go orders, a part of the business that is brisk. As it should be.

No light reading here

The menu is very large: samosas, naan, soups, salads, vegan specials, “Main Favorites” (masala, saag, vindaloo and korma), a whole section of biryani, tandoori open-clay oven dishes, Desi specials, chef specials and an Indo-Chinese section. It’s a lot. My suggestion is to think of your favorite indian dish and order it here for comparison. Or ask the server for favorites.

On my first visit, I tried the korma, my standard go-to. The creamy, rich sauce is fragrant and, on my first visit, fiery; I leaned into the spice level and pulled back on next time. They’re not playing here. Go down a size if you’re unsure. I also got the naan stuffed with paneer and chili and could just eat it with a side of tikka masala forever. It’s served hot and toasty, with cloud-like soft pieces, other pieces touched with butter and crisp.

On another visit, we tried the Elephant Grill Platter that offers a good sampling of dishes from the tandoor. Smoky chunks of seekh (lamb) and chicken wear bright spices; some pieces green, some red. We spooned masala sauce over the fork-tender pieces, swaddled them in naan, and ate ourselves silly. We had leftovers again, somehow.

A thick mango lassi cooled down our palates after dinner. The Mango cheesecake is a lighter version of the traditional dessert, but is a worthy, if not better, version of the heavier counterpart.

This little white house has seen many restaurant concepts roll through over the past decade-plus. Who remembers Matt McCallister’s Campo Modern Country Bistro? The area has changed a lot since then; apartments now line Beckley Avenue, and they’re keeping the ticket printer busy, which you can hear fire off in the dining room regularly. Nearby residents could help to sustain it for in-house diners — no matter the mix, it’s a win.

Elephant Indian Grill, 1115 N. Beckley Ave., Sunday – Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.