The bagels here are made in small batches using a 24-hour fermentation process that helps the development of complex gluten, a key to getting that good bagel chew. The bagels are then boiled prior to baking and served up from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. or until they run out. And they do run out.

The toasted onion bagel has a terrific, slightly crisp outside and chewy center, and a lox schmear had chunks of Acme Nova lox incorporated into the rich cream cheese.

For a plain bagel, we loved the honey almond spread, which has chopped roasted almonds, Texas-sourced honey and just the right amount of sweetness.

The fermented jalapeño schmear on an untoasted sesame bagel is also a winner. The fermentation evidently tones down the kick of the jalapeño, concentrating the flavor in a unique way that we found extremely satisfying.