First-timers to Taj Chaat may well be overwhelmed with choices, but that’s a feature, not a bug. Inside this restaurant’s rambunctious dining room, at least four walls are covered with all-vegetarian menu choices ranging from enormous, excellent dosas to trays of tapioca vada (fritters). To try a sampling of dishes, order a thali, although again there are several varieties of thali available, representing different parts of India. Listen carefully after ordering, because your order number could be called from one of several locations depending on the cooking technique you’ve requested. On the way to your table, stop by the chutney bar and load up.

Top pick: Any dosa here is going to be perfectly formed and boldly flavored — and also enormous.