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Courtesy Kumar's

Kumar's

Kumar’s uses savvy, “small plates” marketing to appeal to a non-Indian audience, but the restaurant is usually buzzing with south Indian guests who know the kitchen is turning out some of the best food in Plano. The menu recently enjoyed a redesign that highlights specialties like thalapakatti biryani, with big, tender pieces of goat mixed into the rice. (Watch for bones.) Kumar’s offers a lot of goat, but vegetarian options abound, too — go for the delightfully spicy cauliflower that’s marinated in seasonings and then fried, roasted eggplant or a masala dosa.

Top pick: The “Breads, But Not The Usual Though” menu section lives up to its promise with some fabulous stuffed breads, parathas, pancakes and kottu, the dish of flaky bread pieces stir-fried with your choice of protein.

The downside: This might be a strange complaint, but the dining room itself is uninspiring. We’d be more likely to bring guests if the floor, seats, tables, walls and ceiling weren’t all slightly different shades of brown.

Fun fact: Even before we eat — as we’re cracking open some BYOB drinks — we’re charmed by whip-smart, frequently sarcastic menu descriptions like “Curd rice: yogurt and rice, with fried spices mixed in … (it sounds weird, but tastes awesome).” (Fact.)

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