Stock and Barrel gets a great deal of its charm though chef Jon Stevens' casual embrace of American nostalgia. A thick, juicy burger, a salad featuring iceberg lettuce, wood-grilled steaks and roast chicken mimic plates that graced the tables set by middle-class suburban moms of so many past decades. They’re better, of course. The meatloaf here is made with wagyu beef and prepared au poivre with a velvety sauce. Salads may feature iceberg lettuce, but they do it composed with ingredients that speak for themselves, including bacon that’s cured in house and blue cheese with a whole lot of funk. Despite the seemingly casual nature of some of the dishes, plenty of elegant plates make their way out of the kitchen, which seems appropriate given the well-appointed dining room. Stock and Barrel was built into the old Safety Glass Building that faces West Davis Street. Contractors gutted the building, leaving little more three walls. When they were finished, they left behind Oak Cliff’s sleekest dining room. It’s a fitting backdrop for octopus ceviche, perfectly seared monkfish and expertly cooked steaks, cooked over a wood-fired grill. If you’re feeling casual, grab a beer at the bar and order a burger. Your night will be a memorable one.
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