Bit of a paradox, blogging about pork sausage the same week I blogged about potato latkes, but what the heck, I don't keep kosher, and I can't keep quiet about these pigs that need no blanket -- not anymore.
My Jewish guilt is somewhat assuaged by the fact that I first discovered this style of crisp, stogie-like breakfast sausage links while in New York City where every dive, diner and deli serves them as a matter of course. Not so in Dallas, which seems married to the far skinnier link sausage or its flat patty cousin, as if homage to Jimmy Dean is a local culinary imperative.
Years ago, I had a stogie-sausage source at Gilbert's Deli, once a North Dallas institution, but the restaurant shuttered its doors, and if memory serves Deli News still has something similar. But to walk into Eatzi's on Oak Lawn, which serves one of the best and least expensive to-go breakfasts in town, and find their tubby, house-made links just sitting there, huddled together in a large bowl waiting to be eaten at a buck a pop -- well it's worth a few extra hours at the gym just to offset the ensuing caloric surge.
So spare me the dick jokes and run out and taste one of these fat ones. They' re crunchy, they're greasy, they flood the mouth with rich, smokey flavor (careful), and they may just cause you to amend your dietary laws.
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.