First Look: Parry Avenue Barbecue Co.'s Ribs Deliver

A rib and brisket plate with two sides from the recently opened Parry Avenue Barbecue Co.
A rib and brisket plate with two sides from the recently opened Parry Avenue Barbecue Co. Doyle Rader
Pitmaster Leo Morales boasts that his new barbecue joint, Parry Avenue Barbecue Co. (PABC), serves the best ribs in Texas. His claim comes from a place of confidence — he’s won awards — rather than bravado.

On a recent visit to his newly opened restaurant, it was easy to see why he’s so proud of his ribs. They’re worth the hype.

The meaty pork ribs are juicy with a flavorful, rich bark with noticeable notes of smoky pepper throughout. A two meat and two sides plate cost $18 — it’s enough to share — and comes with three hefty ribs.

While the plate comes with a side of barbecue sauce, the ribs don’t need it. The piquancy of the bark and smoke that permeates each bite isn’t worth masking. Save the sauce for the slice of white bread that comes on the side.
click to enlarge Pitmaster Leo Morales with his smoker, "Little Mama." - DOYLER RADER
Pitmaster Leo Morales with his smoker, "Little Mama."
Doyler Rader
Along with ribs, PABC is serving brisket and sausage right now. The brisket is lean, but not dry, and it doesn’t skimp on flavor either. It’s also visually appealing with a noticeable pink smoke ring just under the crust.

For sides, the offerings are limited right now. Coleslaw, macaroni and cheese and potato salad are the only options. Morales says that more are on the way and will be available soon.

Before PABC starts dishing out barbecue at lunch — 11 a.m. until sold out, Monday through Saturday — they serve breakfast tacos in the morning. Once renovations on the building are complete, weekend brunch will be available.

They're serving out of the walk-up window of what was Bo-Leo's. The backyard has plenty of picnic tables.

Even with all the items on the menu, it’s the ribs that make the trip to sunny South Dallas worth it.

Parry Avenue Barbecue Co., 4300 Parry Ave. Lunch, 11 a.m. to sell out.
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