Dining options at Highland Park Village have been, until recently, surprisingly dull. Mi Cocina and Starbucks are particularly pedestrian. But the neighborhood boasts the popular Bird Bakery and Royal Blue Grocery, an upscale grocer that sells a lot of Dallas-made products. And now, in a neighborhood that takes itself quite seriously, comes a new restaurant that doesn't: Perfect Union Pizza Co.
This new pizzeria comes from Nick Badovinus, the Dallas restaurateur known for over-the-top concepts like Town Hearth, where luxury collides with Badovinus' sense of humor. Perfect Union Pizza Co. similarly feels at ease, a little slice of cool in an otherwise stuffy neighborhood.
While Neapolitan pizza still seems to be a popular trend in Dallas, Perfect Union doesn't go that route. The oven-fired pizzas, made with 24-hour fermented dough, are pleasantly crisp but still have the chewiness that proves comforting in a good pizza. The menu is filled with Badovinus' signature humor, from a pizza named #Jeff (a white pie with scamorza cheese, Canadian bacon, roasted pineapple, shishitos and red onion, $17) to the Scampi? But of Course, another white pizza topped with rock shrimp, vodka sauce, red onion, garlic salt and pea tendrils.
There are other dishes on the menu, too — vegetables like warm carrots and ricotta, a caprese salad, spaghetti and meatballs — but the real magic here lies on the pizza menu. There's fun to be had on the drink menu, too, which boasts a section devoted to low-ABV spritzes ($9) likely to be popular during the hot summer months. There's also sangria ($10), a small menu of wines by the bottle and, in keeping with current trends, plenty of wines on tap.
In short, Perfect Union takes Nick Badovinus back to his simpler concepts, such as burger joint Off-Site Kitchen, before the $100 wood-fired steaks and luxury tater tots of Town Hearth. It's one of two new restaurants from high-profile Dallas restaurateurs opening this summer in Highland Park Village. Julian Barsotti is preparing to open a sister Italian restaurant, Fachini, above Perfect Union.
You may not stumble upon this pizzeria while taking a break from a shopping spree at Alexander McQueen and Escada, but this pizza joint is solid enough — and affordable enough, comparatively speaking — to warrant a trip to Highland Park Village.
Perfect Union Pizza Co., 33B, Highland Park Village