5100 Belt Line, Addison
I seem to remember a time, shortly after engineer-turned-chef Mansour Gorji bought the Canary Cafe space, when he served sushi at lunch.
The previous occupant had been a Japanese restaurant and so many of that venue's regulars dropped by hoping for a raw fish fix, Gorji couldn't afford to drop it from his menu.
But that was then. Nowadays, the chef-owner can rely on his own set of regulars in a restaurant that has grown in sophistication over the years. Instead of a casual Mediterranean cafe-sushi bar hybrid, Canary Cafe shows off white tablecloths and a group of well-trained, extraordinarily gracious servers. The menu includes several of his award-winning steaks and the bar stocks Estrella Damm Inedit, the $19 beer brewed with input from the staff at El Bulli.
On the other hand, it's one of the few places to list calf fries...
Seeing as how I have a rule against eating testicles, my most recent visit involved fried polenta and beef anar. The former presents a ribbon of silken corn meal as both a centerpiece and an afterthought to a complex pomodoro, at once sharp, sweet, husky and minty--with a kick.
Beef anar features prime tenderloin tips and red onion in pomegranate cream sauce spike with pepper. Because the sauce is so pronounced in flavor, the beef tends to disappear--showing only as a texture under all that cream.
Ah, the the texture is beautiful, a pillow-soft cushion of red meat. Gorji knows how to handle beef.
You can't help but like this place--and the chef-owner who strolls from table to table checking on guests, offering a polite bow when they issue a compliment. And that a man born in Iran, trained in Scotland as an engineer, has several Texas steak cookoff titles to his name...well, that's just cool.
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.