As much as he may have liked keeping his bar only for those who seek it out, this cat is out of the bag. This morning Esquire published its annual list of the 42 Best Bars in America, and Ayahuasca is the lone watering hole in Dallas.
Ayahuasca Cantina: At this bar hidden deep in the back of an all-day café in Dallas’s Oak Cliff, the move is to start off with a flight of the less popular sotol, the grassy-flavored distillate that comes from a plant in the Chihuahuan Desert in Mexico. Though it’s not as ubiquitous as agave-based spirits, you can still taste the soul in every sip. Start here, then switch to one of the many seasonal cocktails.
The blurb only scratches the surface here. It doesn't touch on the fact that every bottle in the house is thoughtfully sourced from Mexico (even the red wine and gin), and that many of the cups are imported (sometimes via Gallego's suitcases) from Oaxaca. Everything from the cocktails to the menu is homage to pre-Hispanic ingredients and techniques that have been a part of Mexican culture for hundreds of years.
Gallegos is honored to be included on Esquire's list. "Our commitment to showcasing and preserving our heritage remains steadfast as we continue to grow both as a team and as a bar," Gallegos told the Observer.
At the bar specifically, the clarified margarita might be one of the best drinks we've had all year, but the Esquire article recommends a flight of sotol as equally mesmerizing. Every server in the house will answer, at length, any questions you have about what's set in front of you.
The kitchen hones in on traditional pre-Hispanic dishes that might be unfamiliar to the uninitiated. The tuetano is a great place to start; two roasted half bones filled with marrow are topped with chimichurri and then placed over corn husks that are lit just before landing on the table. Spoon the marrow out and spread inside house-made tortillas. The servers will guide you through the rest of the menu. Be open-minded. The tequila can guide you there.
To find this spot, enter Xaman Cafe and head down the hallway on the left to the door at the back. The dining room and bar at Ayahuasca are dark, with an almost haunting energy, heightened by the catrina art, candelabras and ofrendas, giving an air of Dia de Los Muertos every day of the year.
Dallas should be proud to have a bar on Esquire's list with such cultural relevance. Make reservations before heading over.
Ayahuasca, 334 Jefferson Blvd., Tuesday – Saturday, 5 p.m. – midnight.
