4

Eat Gonzalez's Awesome Crispy Tacos Before They Get Gentrified to Taco Heaven

^
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Ever move away from a place, and then come back a few years later and say something like, "man, I hardly recognize a thing?" A lot of people are going to say that about Jefferson Boulevard in the coming years; I'll bet you a crispy taco on it.

Right now, Jim Lake is sculpting the entire north side of the 300 block with his Jefferson Tower project. The new façade, complete with finished-cedar trim will be a beacon to customers with discretionary income and a hunger for ice cream laced with Madagascar vanilla or freshly brewed peppercorn pilsner. It will also serve as a warning for family businesses that have given life to the neighborhood for years: your rent's about to go up, probably a lot.

Beneath those cedar accents, Gonzalez Restaurant peeks out like a relic. Stand out on the street looking in, and you'd hardly recognize the place as a decades-old Tex-Mex spot, but walk through the door and it's obvious that not much has changed for years.

That includes the tacos pictured above, whose shells are so light and ethereal they might rise above the gentrification outside, and speak to the greater good. Tex-Mex, the genre synonymous with sluggishness and afternoon naps, should take a note or two from these precious tacos: things that emerge from the deep fryer need not eat like cement.

Only the meat and garnishes give these tacos any heft. Remove the lettuce, tomatoes and cheese, and the shells would slowly float toward the ceiling, vanishing, just like that loan shop across the street probably will, too.

That they only cost $7.95 only adds to the deliciousness, and they come with rice, beans and all the chips and salsa you can handle. Oh, and two flour tortillas that are so thick you might mistake them for pita bread. Of course prices like these can't be guaranteed forever considering the surrounding economic environs. Get your crunchy tacos while you can.

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.