After a lengthy and extensive renovation that took nearly an entire calendar year, Lower Greenville’s Belgian-influenced bar Meyboom Brasserie
is a full-go. It was worth the wait. April Segovia and her husband, Jeff Karetnick, purchased the space, formerly home to Ragin' Crab Café, in June 2021.
“We built this place with just a team of three. Myself, my husband, Jeff, and our carpenter [Cisco Lara], who is now our kitchen manager,” said Segovia.
Segovia did all the design work herself. Antique pieces from Belgium and France, reclaimed wood from old Dallas homes and Tiffany-style lamps salvaged from downtown’s now-shuttered Spaghetti Warehouse are just a few of the eclectic decor choices made by Segovia to give Meyboom its endearing, one-of-a-kind character. And that custom bar is gorgeous. Made of polished live edge teak wood with a stunning high-gloss finish, it's shaped like the letter “M” to represent the nearby historic M Streets, known for their charming Tudor and Craftsman homes.
We pulled up a seat at the bar on a chilly Dallas evening and were greeted by Karetnick. In addition to being a co-owner, he doubles as the maestro behind the bar. We started with an Ayinger Oktoberfest ($8), a dark, malty German Märzen. Meyboom has a nice list of select international ales and lagers spanning Belgium, Germany, France, Italy and the Czech Republic. But on this night, our focus was more on Katernick’s cocktail-fixing prowess. He owns an impressive array of alcohol certifications and has curated the drink menu.
Our first cocktail was the Belgian Bee’s Knees ($13). Made with Clover gin from Belgium, honey syrup and lemon, it's citrusy, bright and the perfect summertime (or anytime) drink to pair with Meyboom’s expansive patio when the weather warms back up. An espresso martini ($12) came next on Segovia’s recommendation: coffee liqueur and vodka in an espresso – this blew us away. Bold yet just sweet enough, and again exquisitely made. All of Meyboom’s cocktails use natural ingredients, many of which are locally sourced.
Tempura cod fish and chips.
So how did Segovia and Katernick come up with the idea to bring this Belgium-inspired bar to Lower Greenville? It was after a trip to Belgium that the pair took in 2019. The culture left such an indelible impression that they decided to make it their mission to open Meyboom, which means “tree of joy” and is a festival held annually in Brussels.
The final drink we tried was the whiskey sour ($13), which gracefully toed the line between sour and sweet, balanced beautifully. Not to overstate it, but Katernick is quite the savant behind the bar. All of our cocktails were so smooth and precise. Never harsh. From Katernick’s creations to the contemporary classics, Meyboom Brasserie offers a range of skillfully crafted cocktails in addition to beer and wine lists. And don’t forget the house shots. The Belgian Green Tea (Jameson and Lindeman’s Pêche) is already calling our name for next time.
Of course, a Belgian-inspired restaurant has Brussels sprouts.
For bar bites, Meyboom offers elevated Belgian bar fare, all in small portions. The menu starts with a "petite plats" section with the most expensive item ringing in at $12. There's also a side menu with several variations of fries and Bruxelles sprouts. And, naturally, a Liége waffle ($6) is on offer.
We suggest Bitterballen ($11), delightful Dutch fried meatballs of braised beef thickened by roux and served with a delicious house mustard blend. The tempura beer-battered cod ($10) off the small bites menu is served with malt vinegar and is also a popular choice; the Bruxelles sprouts, aka Brussels sprouts, were fantastic. This dish has a beer cheese sauce made with Duchesse De Bourgogne and is generously topped with Flemish bacon.
Before heading out, we asked Segovia and Katernick what their ultimate vision was for Meyboom Brasserie. Segovia didn’t hesitate to answer. “We want it to be like Cheers,” she told us.
2100 Greenville Ave. Closed Monday; Tuesday – Thursday, 6 p.m. –11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 6 p.m.– midnight; Sunday, 3 p.m. – 10 p.m.