Dallas' newest double cheeseburger indulgence is a double-whammy: The Cow + Pig, a house-ground brisket and bacon patty. In other words, bacon is blended right in with the beef.
Even sitting at the bar of the shiny-new Stirr makes it obvious this Deep Ellum spot isn’t skimping on the details. A bottle of Dom Pérignon is perched on the counter, itself a slab of beautiful marble with swirls of black and white like ice cream. A column of fire wood runs alongside the tall-reaching wine shelves. There are coiled light bulbs, mustaches and fresh eggs in glass cups on the bar for cocktails.
On the menu, the Cow + Pig burger is highlighted by a little box. The patties — a house-grind of Black Angus brisket and Nueske’s bacon — are topped with house pickles, tobacco onions (wisps of onion seasoned in an old spice blend that features cayenne, garlic, thyme, cumin) and sharp cheddar. My burger arrives tall and proud, the kind of burger that should be introduced with trumpeting horns.
The cheese melts into both patties, each adorned with a heavy crust. Pickles are draped in that sort of we-know-we’re-sexy lean over the two patties (“Oh, hey, I didn’t see you there”), and a crown of fried onions, nearly maroon with the tobacco spice blend, sits atop everything. There’s a generous helping of mayo swiped on the airy, bottom bun. It’s a burger that’s trying hard to brag about being Instagrammable. Fine, double cheeseburger, you shall go to Instagram.
One bite in reveals that it’s all worth it: Crisp and acid from the pickles, fried onions that taste of fire and earth and cheddar that’s worth a damn make this a delicious burger. The burger has a good flat-top sear, sealing in a lot of juice. Pressing down lightly on the bun makes rivulets run into the mayonnaise.
“The owners asked me to make the best burger in Dallas,” executive chef Chad Bowden says. He may be on his way. For a brand-new sandwich, Stirr's is a promising stunner.
Stirr, 2803 Main St.
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