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Short Orders: Pizza By Marco, Addison

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I'll just say, straight off, that what I like about Pizza by Marco is their beverage price list.

The new suburban branch of Dallas' most storied pizza joint opened not long ago along Belt Line in Addison. Here you can purchase wine by the glass or bottle, and the two price columns carry down through the beer options, as well. You find Brooklyn Lager at $2.50 per glass, $12.50 for a bottle. Same thing for Shiner and other labels.

That's one hell of a mark up.

Certainly there's an easy explanation, though I didn't bother to ask for it. My server was a few steps behind all afternoon. After I sat down and ordered, she returned to double check if I'd called for iced tea. "Don't you dare bring me anything non-alcoholic," I told her. The folks at the next table (it's a rather intimate setting) endured the same routine: was it Coke and Diet Coke? I wanted Coke, she wanted Diet Coke. OK.

Fortunately for the confused server, it's an easy crowd to deal with--families with time to kill and those already convinced of Pizza by Marco's stature in the local pizza universe.

The pies aren't at all bad, really--though living up to the praise issued by PbM advocates would be near impossible. Atop a rather understated cracker crust, a mat of cheese pretty much conceals any character the sauce might contribute...and does a number on the other toppings, as well. Piece by piece these are rather ordinary pizzas. They make, however, a somewhat better overall impression.

Not sure how that works, but so be it. Just be careful ordering beer by the bottle.

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