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Chris Wolfgang

Cattleack Barbeque

Catherine Downes
In an industrial park in Farmers Branch, Cattleack Barbeque lives up to every bit of hype it’s received from Texas Monthly, which named it the third-best barbecue joint in the state. There’s never been a better time to visit, either, as the pandemic has trimmed the restaurant’s notorious lines by more than half, meaning you can grab a tray of barbecue without making lunch a multi-hour affair. Fabulous fatty brisket and extraordinary pulled whole hog are the stars of the show, as is a vinegar-based coleslaw made from pitmaster Todd David’s mother’s recipe. Grab another bite of slaw and you’ll be prepared to tackle that next slice of Texas hot link.

Top pick: Some weeks, the Cattleack crew smoke beef ribs rubbed with a pastrami spice mix. The ribs are jaw-dropping; order an extra, take it home and throw it in a pot of beans the next day. In fact, order extra of everything in general, and you’ll be cooking the best beans of your life.

The downside: There really isn’t one now that the lines are nearly gone, but when crowds do return, they’ll get to enjoy a series of newly-painted murals of Texas barbecue icons while they wait. Your enjoyment of certain sausages here may hinge on how much grease you enjoy in a link.

Fun fact: Join Cattleack’s mailing list, and you’ll receive an email anytime there are no lines — and you’ll hear about specials like boudin and fancied-up Frito pie, too.

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