This story was first published May 26, 2020, and was updated May 28, 2020.
Good to Go is a column where our food writers explore Dallas' restaurant scene through takeout orders, delivery boxes and reheated leftovers.
It’s not a place where we’d look for a restaurant, even in good times. To the west, the six-lane road ducks under an old freight rail bridge. To the east, cars zip past a self-storage facility, most of them going well over the posted speed limit. Across the street, an empty field has been chained off and covered in pavement by a shipping company.
Behind the property, Interstate 635 stretches across the horizon. Even the restaurant itself looks like a warehouse, with a tiny, not-ready-for-retail parking lot.
This is Eddie’s EuroMart, a Bosnian grocery and grill attached to a restaurant supply store and, around back, a “Balkan Ballroom.” And for lovers of Bosnian food, there’s just nowhere else like Eddie’s in Dallas.
For those who don’t already know the foods of the Balkans: They are a rustic, meaty fusion of Hungarian, Turkish and Greek cuisines. The cuisine reflects the region’s tempestuous history. Under Ottoman rule, Middle Eastern influences crept in while dishes also arrived from neighboring Hungary, Italy and Greece. The result, at Eddie’s, is a menu mix of kebabs, dolmas, burgers, goulash and tiramisu.
But the stars at Eddie’s are the savory pies.
A pie here is a loaf of bread, formed and coiled into a spiral before baking. The flake is airy — the pie is full of little bubbles and hidden pockets, and at the edges the bread can crumble like pastry. On top it’s a deep golden brown.
In a cheese pie, the air bubbles will be full of crumbles of feta, and bits of cheese might burst joyously out onto the surface. It’s a total delight. The meat pie is, too, with ground beef sweetened gently by finely chopped carrots and onions, then brought back down to earth by black pepper. The spice mix tastes just like the meat turnovers my Turkish mom cooks.
The meat and cheese pies are nearly impossible to stop eating, and they’re bigger than the $6.50 price tag would suggest. Takeout pie orders are packed up in pizza boxes — from a completely different restaurant, the now-closed Atomic Pies.
By the way, the pies reheat beautifully for snacks, breakfasts or those points in the afternoon when we just really need cheese bread.
To add more takeout value, do some shopping in the refrigerators dedicated to cheeses and sausage links. Here’s a foolproof breakfast recipe from my Turkish family to your house: Buy a block of Kasseri cheese. Slice it, put the cheese on slices of baguettes, sprinkle the cheesebread with cayenne pepper and slide it under the broiler. Wait until the cheese starts bubbling and getting golden spots, then pull out and devour.
Eddie is Enver Kolenovic, owner of the EuroMart and the restaurant supply store next door. I called Kolenovic to ask him about his business and history, but he didn’t want to talk.
“I don’t need the newspaper,” Kolenovic said. “I have business enough.” Then he hung up.
I don’t know how to interpret that statement, offered at the peak of the Dallas County coronavirus outbreak. When every business in the city is hurting, should we really be patronizing a restaurant that doesn’t want our business at all? And isn’t the point of the hospitality industry to be, you know, hospitable?
But those cheesy, spiraled feta pies. They’re calling my name. Maybe I’ll answer the call — after this is all over, when restaurants are back on their feet, and when Eddie doesn’t remember me anymore.
Update: The night after this article was published, friends of Eddie Kolenovic reached out with an explanation for his terse interview: He thought we were trying to sell him something, or that our promise of coverage would come with strings attached.
"He gets so many calls for people selling things and for people trying to make him offer coupons," a friend of the owners wrote to me.
I'd like to take this moment to remind food lovers, and food writers, that many great restaurants are so far outside the spotlight, they don't know how the spotlight works. Dallas food media coverage typically focuses on businesses with professional PR staffs, but we're working to change that. Support your local small business without reservation — and maybe by starting with a takeout cheese pie.
Eddie's EuroMart, 12243 Northwest Highway, Suite 300 (Far Northeast Dallas).
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