Food News

Bowl and Barrel Plates Up Amazing Dogs

Have you checked out Bowl and Barrel yet? The upscale boutique bowling alley got a lot of attention when it opened late last year. Sharon Hage is responsible for the menu some of the resulting dishes are very good.

See also: Watch Your Wallet At Bowl & Barrel

Just take a look at this "kraut dog," which makes use of lightly fermented, shredded Brussels sprouts instead of traditional sauerkraut made from cabbage. The kicker is a horseradish applesauce that recalls that old pork chop plate you had 20 years ago. I love it.

The bun's a little weird though and makes for sloppy eating. It reminds me of a painting at a Roy Lichtenstein exhibit I saw while visiting Chicago last summer.

It's a cool look for sure, but it's not really practical -- the entire thing has a tendency to fall apart while you're eating. Luckily it tastes delicious. I'd order another in a heartbeat.

The burgers here are quite good too. The kitchen doles out juicy, cooked as requested patties on substantial buns. I wish the rest of the menu was this attractive.

Some of the food at Bowl and Barrel comes off too pretty. There's a quail appetizer that coats the most diminutive drumsticks with crunchy breading and pairs them with a decent ranch dipping sauce. They're addictive, but gone in an instant and leave you craving more. I can't help but to think the dish would work a lot better it it was made with traditional chicken wings. The results would be more substantial, and it would likely cost less too.

Oysters and a cheese plate feel out of place too. I realize that the sport has changed a lot over the past few decades but you have to draw the line somewhere. A menu that maintains focuses on bar food classics would work much better.

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Scott Reitz
Contact: Scott Reitz