The Republic Texas Tavern Could Maybe Use More Tavern and More Texas, but the Food's on Point

We were reading a quick review of Onēsan Dim Sum and Sushi in the Observer a few weeks back and saw mention of Republic Texas Tavern, which is evidently owned by the same people and is right next door to the dim sum place. Intrigued, we took a cursory look at the place's website and found that chefs Ray Skardzinski, who spent several years as executive sous chef at a couple of Wolfgang Puck restaurants, and Kent Rathbun have attempted to create a “bar-centric restaurant that offers a wide variety of dishes with a Texas twist.”
We dropped by one hot Saturday afternoon for lunch, and even though the shade provided by a grand tree spanning most of the outdoor patio seating was inviting, the inside air conditioning was more so. The first thing we noticed was that for a “tavern” with “Texas” as its descriptor, this was not very tavern-y or Texas-centric. It was a somewhat upscale space, not uncomfortably fancy but sharing virtually no DNA with your local bar or tavern.

And while there was a bit of rustic sensibility to the space (rough brick walls, open unfinished rafters to a vaulted ceiling that evoked a bit of barn-like feel), there was none of the expected Texas accoutrements inside: no Texas flag (though it was proudly flown outside along with the Stars and Stripes), no rusted Dr Pepper signs, no Sam Houston paintings. Once inside one might have been in a comfy and classy restaurant in Peoria, Illinois, or Little Rock, Arkansas. Not that that’s a bad thing; it was just a bit surprising. The Texas twist, evidently, was in the food rather than the décor.
We started with a couple of cocktails: Kent’s Honey Bee and an Old Lancaster. Both were on the strong side and were a good start to the meal. Kent's Honey Bee consisted of vanilla and cinnamon infused bourbon, Kent Rathbun's local Texas honey and lemon. The Old Lancaster was a twist on an old fashioned, using Sazerac bourbon and peach bitters along with a cherry. Each was a healthy pour.

As this was lunch, we decided to share a few bites as well as ordering a sandwich. Our shareable selections were a couple of deviled eggs, some pepper-jack tots and a basket of chicken-fried quail tenders.
The menu referred to them as candied bacon & eggs — deviled egg with molasses-glazed bacon, crispy garlic and house-pickled serrano pepper. You order them by the egg (or rather half-egg), and we ordered two. They arrived as pretty as a picture on an attractive wooden plank that, teasingly, had empty spots for three more eggs. Mean. Yes, we should have ordered more. They were great little pops into the mouth, savory and a bit sweet and gone in a second.
The pepper-jack tots came six to an order with a wonderful charred scallion sour cream dip that put the char front and center. The tots themselves had a higher cheese-to-potato ratio than we were expecting, but for some that’s a good thing.

The quail tenders arrived in a stainless-steel fry basket along with a side of yellow pepper ranch dipping sauce. A generous portion, but then it did ring in at a somewhat-generous price of $21. Tender yet crispy, perfectly seasoned, these, too, did not last long.
Finally, the Republic BLT sliders arrived two to an order: house-smoked pork belly, jalapeño aioli, lettuce and tomato, on toasted Hawaiian buns and served with a small side of house BBQ chips and a slew of pickles. They were perfect little bites of crisp, fatty pork belly sitting atop ripe tomatoes and crisp lettuce. The chips were better than they should have been, too.

We wish we could have tried the house-smoked pastrami sandwich and brisket grilled cheese; the Dr Pepper-glazed ribs and chicken-fried rib-eye steak looked appealing as well. All would have gone well with the dozen or so canned beers (Three Nations, Kingsville, etc.) and drafts (Wild Acre, Community Mosaic IPA, etc.) available. It was hard to pass up on the hibiscus jalapeño margarita, too. A return trip is in order, hopefully when it’s cool enough to sit outside under that tree.

12300 Inwood Road, No. 170; Monday – Wednesday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Thursday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Saturday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – midnight.