The locavores in Dallas have always had it tough. While Tom Spicer may be pushing the envelope of urban gardening, and farms outside of Dallas deliver great product, their offering can't be described as a bounty. Local game is plentiful, but produce availability can be a challenge.
At the same time, the sustainability and local food movements continue to pick up steam as diners take interest in where and how their food is cultivated. The result is a pressure on restaurants to deliver dishes cooked with pedigreed ingredients, regardless of their availability or applicability to the restaurant's menu. In response, some establishments attempts at embracing local ingredients can seem forced or clunky.
Local, in Deep Ellum, never wanted to be this type of restaurant. In this week's review I explore the name of Tracy Miller's restaurant and the evolution of the term since she parsed out her business plan for the space more than a decade ago. I also uncover one of the best burgers I've had since coming to Dallas and a sleek, clean space that makes me want to return.
While I'll praise any restaurant's genuine attempt to embrace an important front on the evolution of our food culture, what I care about most when I'm dining out is feeling comfortable and eating well. Local accomplishes both.
