When it comes to food, some things are meant to go together: peanut butter and jelly, pancakes and maple syrup, T-bones and cabernet. Now available at the Dallas Farmers Market Shed on weekends, another complementary food match that comes out as a perfect hot-cold dessert triad: fried cinnamon-sugar churros, ice cream and that sinful chocolate hazelnut spread we know as Nutella.
Historically from Spain and Portugal, churros are fried-dough pastries popular today throughout Mexico, most of South America and the Philippines. In Brazil, churros are often filled with doce de leite or chocolate sauce. Colombians like to glaze them with arequipe and sweetened condensed milk, and Mexicans fry theirs in a spiral for dipping in hot chocolate.
But Dallas’ churro selection has largely been limited to a few restaurant dessert menus — until now. Paul Newsome, a bank manager by day, is the first to offer freshly fried churros with ice cream and a host of other sweet drizzly temptations, hence the name Twisted Churros — churros with a twist. He's serving them the way most churros are sold throughout the world: from a walk-up stand. He even has a six-item vegan menu for those who don’t want Nutella on an IV drip and instead opt for the kinder version, called Nutiva.
Newsome considers himself an entrepreneur and has always dreamed of starting his own small business. When Wells Fargo transferred him to their location on Lower Greenville, he noticed the specialty shops selling macarons, chocolate and gelato. That’s when he asked himself, “Why not me?” and began experimenting with churro recipes, with his wife Carolina Martinez functioning as his test group. After crafting his own best recipe, he realized his churros were not only delicious, but also vegan.
His next step was to start collecting restaurant equipment. An inquisitive cashier at Ace Mart Restaurant Supply suggested Newsome consider the Dallas Farmers Market Shed when he told her about his churro idea. He discovered the Farmers Market wasn’t exclusively fruit and vegetable stalls as he thought it was, so he put in an application to become a vendor.
He then put his hours of watching the Food Network to good use by pretending to be a game-show contestant when he was invited to present a demo to The Shed judges. An acceptance email days later meant he was on his way to accomplishing his five-year business plan. He began operating in July of last year with the help of his wife, Martinez, who demonstrated the ultimate display of devotion by working outside in the Texas summer while seven months pregnant.
Newsome’s five-year business plan includes a brick-and-mortar space at some point, but until then, you can find him and Martinez at The Shed from 9 to 5 on Saturdays 10 to 5 on Sundays. OG churros are his basic churros that come sliced into bite-size portions, served with your choice of dipping sauces that include dulce de leche, caramel, cookie butter, Nutella, strawberry, chocolate, sweetened condensed milk and marshmallow fluff or cajeta.
As good as churros are in their simplest form, Twisted Churros is really not the place for minimalism, though. His specialty churros include lures like the Speculoos with cookie butter drizzle and Biscoff cookie crumbles. Or the So Cal Pebble with sweetened condensed milk, Fruity Pebbles and strawberry sauce. There’s also temporary specials, like the red velvet churros topped with red velvet cake chunks, cream cheese drizzle and mini-chocolate chips. What could possibly make all this taste even better? Only two scoops of Glenview Farms ice cream and a cloud of whipped cream. There’s also churro ice cream sandwiches and churro ice cream cones.
Vegans don’t get short shrift here, either. Along with Nutiva, there is coconut sweetened condensed milk and vegan chocolate. When the weather gets warmer, there will also be vegan ice cream.
Only a driving entrepreneurial spirit could make someone want to work seven days a week, as Newsome does. That spirit and his three kids, who according to him, “all want the nice things,” mean the people of Dallas can finally get a proper churro fix.
Dallas Farmers Market, 920 S. Harwood
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