Eat This

At Dallas' Guava Tree Truck, a Gorgeous Cuban Sandwich and Yucca Fries Await

If we're going to talk about sandwiches, which, we promise we will, then we'd be negligent to exclude the Cuban. And in a land where there's a lot of chatter about proper sandwiches, we just don't hear enough about the sandwiches from the island a-skip-and-a-hop south of Florida.

See Also: - CBD Provisions' Cuban Sandwich Has Reaffirmed My Love for the Cuban Sandwich

The Guava Tree Truck is here to help fill that void. Owners Onel and Pam Perez are pushing out paper boats of popular Cuban dishes pulled from Onel's Cuban parents' recipe box.

First, let's discuss the base of any proper sandwich: the bread. Yes, they do in fact get theirs from the International Bakery in Carrollton. It's odd that a bakery in a Dallas suburb is the litmus test for Cuban legitimacy, but it is. For their sandwiches on the truck, they add sliced ham, slow roasted pork, Swiss cheese and pickles, which is then all drizzled with a guava mustard.

Now that we've established authentic recipes and proper bread, let's move on to the loaded fries, because this is 'MERICA and that's what we do: take other cultures' staples and drown them in gluttony. It's beautiful.

The main vegetable for the loaded fries is the yucca, which is the potato equivalent in subtropical regions like Cuba. The Perezes cut the yuccas into long fat fingers and fry them until they're crisp and golden (about three minutes) in a soybean-based oil. The resulting starch is strong enough to hold a mouthful of spicy black beans, fried onion strings, crumbled queso fresco, and a bit of garlic mojo sauce. There's really no need to get fancy here -- just go track this down.

The Guava Tree is part of the regular rotation at the TruckYard and in the Arts District. They keep a pretty reliable schedule on at and on Twitter.

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Lauren Drewes Daniels is the Dallas Observer's food editor. She started writing about local restaurants, chefs, beer and kouign-amanns in 2011. She's driven through two dirt devils and is certain they were both some type of cosmic force.