Chiloso's Grilled Avocado Empire

David Balli has spent most of his life in the restaurant business, beginning with a job washing dishes when he was a freshman in high school. He moved on to TGIFridays and later, in 1995, started working with Chuy's in Austin. It was there, at the burgeoning Tex-Mex empire that began on Barton Springs Road, that he really learned the business and developed a passion for food and running restaurants.

He eventually came to a crossroads. He was done at Chuy's and was at a point where he could continue working for others, or go into business for himself. He called his uncle, Jose Obregon, and they decided to start a business together: Chiloso Mexican Bistro. The first restaurant opened in Rockwall in 2005 and this year they opened their tenth store, with number 11 slated for Forney next year. Chiloso is a casual Mexican concept and a bit reminiscent of a Chipotle, with a build-your-own option for bowls. But the space has also developed a sort of cult following for a number of items on its menu, particularly the jalapeño ranch dressing and some of the house-made sauces. But what's set them apart from the large fast-casual Tex-Mex pack in North Texas is the simple and divine grilled avocado.

"It started off as a daily special, but I'm telling you," Balli says "we started having people coming in every day for it so we had to put it on the menu. And then we started doing a breakfast version."

This one dish is what really got the Chiloso off the ground. Half an avocado is sprinkled with spices and lime juice before hitting the grill, with a turn on each side. The outside is slightly charred, adding just a touch of texture to the soft fruit, which is plated on a pool of queso. Add any of the meats on offer: roasted pork, barbacoa, ground beef, rojo chicken, grilled steak or brisket. A bit of cilantro tops it off, along with a side of rice and beans.

The allure is that it's a simple dish; avocado, meat and queso. But the textures and flavors are all on point, and it comes together as a really flavorful yet simple dish.
We fell for the avocado originally at Tacolandia and Morning After Brunch. Chiloso regularly attends these community events — Balli says that's his preferred method of promotion over any other form of advertising. At Morning After when their breakfast avocado dish (scrambled eggs and queso over half an avocado) was announced as the winner of the People's Choice Award, there was a collective cheer across the event. Everyone was talking about the grilled avocado all morning though, so the Vegas odds were low.

We had to ask Balli how he keeps such a large avocado stash, especially with the inconsistencies in supply and price fluctuations over the past few years (in addition to that one cartel incident).

"We buy a lot of avocados. We have a couple different suppliers that we use, but we buy a lot," he says. He keeps an eye on different regions of growers in different seasons but stresses they're always bought fresh, never frozen — a tactic some use to extend the shelf life — and slices them open only when ordered.

While Balli was happy to answer questions about avocado supply, his feathers got a bit ruffled when we asked if his margaritas are wine-based or tequila-based.

"Oh no, they're 100% agave," he said with a bit more passion than expected — a passion that is respected.

Some places use a wine base, I offered. Sometimes it's hard to know by just looking.

"I'm very aware of that," he pointed out. "And we'll get, 'Man, can't you do a cheaper margarita?' And, my answer is always, 'No.'"

Balli is very specific about what goes into his margaritas, something that you don't always find at fast-casual spots, particularly when offered to go, as they are here. Balli uses strictly El Jimador silver.

A house 'rita on the rocks ($10.50) is made with El Jimador silver, Triple Sec and a housemade sweet and sour. Add a Chambord or Grand Marnier floater $1.50. A $12 top-shelf margarita is still a good deal.

You can check Chiloso out at Tacolandia on Nov. 4 (4–7 p.m.), where they will once again be set up in Energy Square Plaza along Greenville Avenue, with lots of avocados and queso. Tickets are $40 and get you unlimited taco samples, with the option to buy drinks from the bar. Or go VIP for $75 and get those same unlimited tacos, plus extra grub in the VIP area and three booze tickets. Each attendee also gets one token to vote for the People's Choice Award.