First Look: Palate by LRC Brings Bites Wine and Bites to North Dallas

Tom Burt and Chrisopher White, owners of Lekka Retail Concepts, a little gift and home décor shop on Preston Road in North Dallas, recently opened their take on a wine bar and bistro that’s connected to the retail space. Christened Palate, the double meaning of which could apply to both taste and artistic harmony, the spot opened earlier this month offering bites and sips and we were eager to check it out.
The space is bright and colorful, yet subdued, with warm light greens and yellows prominent in visual harmony with the foliage of the three ginkgo trees that are the main focal point, their bases sitting in a wine-cellar’s worth of discarded corks. The walls are covered with local artwork that is for sale, which also contributes to the overall palate/palette of the interior as well.

The visual palette did not disappoint, but we were anxious to see how the culinary palate of executive chef Eddie Ledesma-Porter fared as well. Spoiler: We were not disappointed.

This is a wine bar, with a wine list divided into bubblies, whites, reds and sweet. The whites are categorized as “light, fresh and lively” (Rieslings, sauvignon blanc, etc.) and “substantial” (Chardonnays, Triennes Sainte Fleur). The reds get segregated into “soft, silky and smooth” (zwiegelt, pinot noir), “zippy, velvety and bold” (merlot, zin) and “powerful and structured (cabernet sauvignon, grenache, chianti, malbec). Most are served in 6-ounce, 9-ounce or bottle increments, and there is a weekly by-the-glass sommelier selection as well.

Several selections of bourbons, scotch, vodka and tequila are available, along with local brews and several wine-forward craft cocktails such as a house-made sangria, maple ember Manhattan and pearberry martini. We opted for a frozen Aperol spritz and a watermelon whirlwind.
The spritz, $10, was prepared with Aperol, Deep Ellum vodka, Giffard peche, bubbly and white peach. It was cool and refreshing, even with the temperature in the mid-20s that day.

The watermelon whirlwind was from the zero-proof section and was composed of watermelon, strawberry, cucumber and lime with some fresh mint as garnish. The flavor notes, the palate if you will, were spot-on.

There are several bite options available: wine bar staples like citrus olives and charcuterie boards as well as flatbreads (sausage and sage, al pastor), soups, salads and handhelds (Argentine cheesesteak, pita pockets). Everything looked good, but after some difficulty deciding, we settled upon five to share: Tuscan hummus, cauliflower cashew soup, rustico meatballs, duck confit sliders and patatas bravas.
The hummus was a bit different in that it used cannellini beans as the base instead of chickpeas, which made it less viscous and a bit heartier. It came with a generous supply of veggies for dipping, and we added some blistered flatbread.
The soup can be had as a cup or bowl, and we went with a cup, which was more than enough: a rich, creamy base full of rustic flavor, just the perfect intermingling of cauliflower and cashew, neither overpowering the other. Dressed with a drizzle of olive oil and some cracked pepper, it had a nice presentation as well.
The meatballs had the perfect texture, not overpacked and dense, with pecorino romano and buttermilk and garnished with Italian parsley. The dish arrived in a good-sized bowl and really hit the spot.

The duck sliders come three to an order in bao buns, which was a surprise. The confit was dressed with black grape reduction and pickled red onions and carrots. The amount of duck visually seemed a bit scant at first, but the flavor it created was just enough. It seems Ledesma-Porter knows what he’s doing.
Finally, the patatas bravas was very reminiscent of typical tapas fare, made with golden Yukon potatoes cooked in duck fat with lemon-garlic aioli with spicy bravas sauce and garnished with parsley. The perfect bite to share on a cold winter’s day, even without wine.
Rotating options for dessert include a mini chocolate cake and a cookie box with three types of house-made cookies. Follow that up with an after-dinner cocktail, French press coffee or a shared bottle of Strev Moscato d’Asti from the Piedmont region of Italy and you would have had quite an evening.

Palate, 17390 Preston Road, Suite 246. Wednesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.