Urban Tadka’s original location is in an Irving strip center that has seen better days; the Dick’s Sporting Goods recently turned into a trampoline park, and the other anchor business is a Best Buy. But this Punjabi restaurant mini-chain vastly exceeds any expectations that its surroundings might create. The specialties here are paneer, lamb and goat, all available in superb dishes that balance a multitude of flavors and spices. Grab some naan bread that’s been stuffed with paneer or onions, too.

Top pick: Kadai paneer, which finds the cubes of cheese cooked in a spicy sauce with tomatoes and bell peppers, is a standout. Or dunk your naan into lamb dhansak, with ultra-tender lamb simmered in lentils. ($$)