When Gemma opened, it was a Dallas pioneer, bringing along the dressy-casual seasonal cuisine from co-owners Allison Yoder and Stephen Rogers’ last home in Napa. In 2023, they updated the space and refreshed the menu with American, French and Italian comfort foods, although they kept some of their best hits like the rabbit on pappardelle pasta. Grilled salmon over a French lentil salad with an avocado puree is a light and satisfying dish with brilliant pops of flavor.

Top pick: After the mandatory snack bowl of fried olives and pecans, indulge in some of Dallas’ best house-made pastas, and one of the state’s best wine programs. ($$)