100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 29: Steak at Canary

Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2016 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

Chef Mansour Gorji won back-to-back statewide Texas Steak Cook-Offs a decade ago, and although he has retired from cook-offs, the judges could wander into his restaurant tomorrow and hand him another medal. Canary has a simple approach to its meat — salt, pepper, olive oil, sear — but the cooking technique is consistently flawless. The tenderloin arrives perfectly pink from edge to edge and, in that simplest of rubs, eloquent in its flavor.

A word of warning to those, like Donald Trump, who prefer their steaks cooked well-done: As a purist, Chef Gorji is having none of it. “I cook medium rare,” he told me on my last visit. “Don’t ask me to do more.”
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Brian Reinhart has been the Dallas Observer's food critic since spring 2016. In addition, he writes baseball analysis for the Hardball Times and covers classical music for the Observer and MusicWeb International.
Contact: Brian Reinhart