First Look: The Pantry on Magnolia Serves Stellar Dumplings and Brisket

Pantry on Magnolia in Fort Worth is a lot of things — many quite delicious — but one thing it's not, despite its name, is a pantry.

This small restaurant opened in 2022 along buzzing West Magnolia Avenue in Fort Worth. It's a collaboration between a former Trimble Tech culinary teacher, Natasha Bruton, and her one-time student and current chef de cuisine, Michael Rios. (Originally another teacher from Trimble Tech, Hao Tran, was part of the restaurant but she left a few months after the restaurant opened.)
Diners can choose from tables in the front dining room or wander past the counter, toward the back, where bistro tables line a wall facing the kitchen and they can watch their dumplings and noodles being made.

On the night we went, the small-ish restaurant was pretty packed. Our order-taker told us that the Pantry doesn't serve alcohol, but we could go to the bar next door, Grandma's, and we would be united with our food there. They didn't have to say it twice. We picked two seats at the bar and ordered drinks. Soon, our food was delivered and the bartender brought over a caddie with utensils, napkins and such. Party tip: Grandma's happy hour runs Monday through Friday, 3–7 p.m.
The menu at the Pantry starts with hand-folded seasonal dumplings. If you want to try it all, go with a dumpling flight for $16, which includes one of each of their six dumplings. During the holidays the dumpling flight has pork and shitake, Japanese beef stew, smoked turkey and dressing with a dollop of cranberry sauce, Chinese Five Spice pumpkin, broccoli and cheese casserole, loaded baked potato and black garlic mushroom.

The dumplings were inventive and all fun, but on a return trip we'd probably stick with the traditional offerings like the pork and shiitake dumplings (4 for $10), which were delightful little savory treats.

There are also dump-wings and spring rolls, but we went for the okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese savory pancake loaded with toppings for $12. It's Cowtown, so here it was topped with brisket, smoked in-house, and instead of a pancake, this is pressed in a waffle iron. Genius. Scallions, a runny fried egg, and sesame seeds also top this magnificent creation. It looks messy to eat, but a gentle tug and we're able to tackle one waffle quadrant at a time.

The beef here is impressive on its own. In November 2023, the restaurant took first place in the 1st Annual Burnt End Bash, a barbecue competition hosted by Fort Worth Foodies and Trey's Chow Down. The Pantry's smoked Angus short rib pho with a wagyu broth took first place in the nontraditional category. They beat Heim, y'all.
But, as we mentioned there are many interesting things here. And that continues with the housemade desserts. It was hard to pass on Nanny's Original Cinnamon Rolls ($8) topped with bacon and candied pecan for a buck more. But we opted for the banana Foster pudding. Beautifully caramelized bananas floated atop a light creamy pudding buried under a thick layer of whipped cream. This may look like it's sized to share, but just get one for yourself.

The Pantry is open only Friday through Sunday, but you have until midnight on Friday and Saturday.

Pantry on Magnolia, 713 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth. Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.