Vidorra might not earn rave reviews for its enchiladas, but that’s OK, because you’re not here for lunch or dinner. You’re here for brunch.
And on that score, this Deep Ellum eatery offers hope.
It’s run by the same folks as Stirr down the street, and the similarities are noticable as you walk through each door. Vidorra – Milkshake Concepts' latest venture – offers Mexican food that is just OK and probably not going to replace the spot Maracas Cocina Mexicana occupies in neighbors’ hearts. But it also offers the kind of trendy amenities that are bringing people to Deep Ellum in droves: weekend brunch on a rooftop patio with a view of the Dallas skyline.
Brunch is a new thing here, having begun the weekend of Sept. 8. Sure, the first morning had some hiccups, but mostly, it was decent. You can get a standard mimosa ($5) or you can get the muy mimosa ($11), which is a better take, with pineapple, cilantro, coconut, jalapeño, St. Germaine, Cantarino and “bubbles.” It’s a good start for a bubbly brunch beverage, even if it comes out looking like a simple pinot grigio.
If the bloody Mary is your brunch go-to of choice, you might skip this one. El dia de los muertos ($12) is Vidorra’s “signature bloody Maria” with Lunazul tequila, lime, tomato, Sriracha, honey and basil. It would be better if it didn’t taste like the glass had previously served as a vessel for pickling cucumbers.
Among the minuses here, drinks came with a long wait and lame presentation — a cucumber margarita came with what looked like the peel of a cucumber, which resulted in a long, slimy vegetable skin sliding down the outside of the glass.
Things got better with the food.
The green chile eggs Benedict ($11) is like having fajitas for breakfast with sautéed peppers and onions. Unlike the traditional benedict dish, this is more like a mixed-up bowl with sweet potato hash. But the chorizo was a spicy highlight and the eggs were poached perfectly. The green-chile hollandaise was negligible, which also leads one to think they might as well change the name of this dish.
If you’re a sweets eater in the morning, the churro toast is worth splitting with someone. It’s simply executed, but that’s all it needs. Texas toast is dipped in French toast batter, fried and rolled in cinnamon-sugar. It does have the outer crunch of a churro, which is a welcome excuse for having one for breakfast. The sugared fried banana slices served with it are some of the most delicious bites in the dish.
A plate that’s worth recommending is the cazuela de brunch ($12). This Mexican egg casserole has chorizo, tortillas, black beans and corn. It’s topped with fried avocado, poblano cream and cilantro, served with a side of breakfast potatoes.
This cheesy little egg dish is savory and addicting. You’ll want to share it, but probably not spare more than one bite. It’s everything you want out of a greasy breakfast, without the guilty suspicion that your heart isn’t going to take it very well.
There are some kinks to work out at Vidorra, but with a few fixes, there’s hope for this beautiful space.
Vidorra, 2642 Main St. (Deep Ellum)
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